Robin Shepard
Champagne Tortoise English Mild from Karben4
Karben4 brewmaster Ryan Koga does some wonderful things with malt in his brew house, despite the brand's fame with IPAs. Recently he took advantage of a free day and brew kettle to create a light, malt-forward brew modeled after the easy drinking mild English session beers.
What is it? Champagne Tortoise English Mild from Karben4 of Madison.
Style: The English Mild Ale is a light- to medium-amber beer. It’s considered easy drinking and slightly malt-forward in both aroma and flavor. “Mild” often refers to the relative lack of hop bitterness. An English Mild is usually low in strength, too, ranging from 3% to 4.5% ABV.
Background: Champagne Tortoise is a draught-only beer currently available in the Karben4 taproom. Karben4 head brewer Jeff Olson teamed up with Koga to develop a recipe with a pleasant blend of English malts, hops and yeast that lend authenticity of the style. It’s smooth, light and very sessionable. The beer is a showcase for English CaraMalt, a touch of crystal rye and East Kent Golding hops, which give it balance.
The name Champagne Tortoise is apparently an eleventh-hour invention before the beer was put on tap, according to Koga, who "just liked the way it sounded."
Champagne Tortoise finishes at 5.3% ABV. It sells in the brewery’s taproom for $4.50/glass and $12/growler (refill). This beer is not bottled.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A light, sweet bread and toffee aroma.
Appearance: Clear copper with a medium, soft, off-white head.
Texture: Medium-bodied and smooth.
Taste: A light, clean, caramel and toffee flavor. A little bready biscuit maltiness in the background.
Finish/Aftertaste: Clean.
Glassware: Karben4 serves this beer in an English-style pint glass, a nod to the origins of the style. A Willi Becher does a better job of focusing the light aromatics under the nose.
Pairs well with: This is a versatile beer with food. However, its light caramel and bready malt flavors can be easily overwhelmed. It’s a nice companion with stews, burgers or brats. When selecting a cheese, my choice is Gruyère or a well-aged Gouda.
Rating: Three Bottle Openers.
The Verdict: For those who like an easy-drinking, malt-forward beer, this is one to try. Smooth hints of caramel and toffee make it flavorful, yet it finishes fast and clean. It’s a good beer for summer, light-bodied — a solid amber ale. While I enjoyed the softer malty side of Champagne Tortoise, the flavors in a second pint eventually blended and faded a little too much. Granted, some like those milder aspects; but this beer has the potential to become lost in the moment.
