Robin Shepard
The Hop Garden’s newest summer beer takes an American wheat ale as its base and showcases a unique hop from Japan known for its citrus and lemon qualities. The result, Rising Sun, is just finding its way into local taphouses.
What is it? Rising Sun from The Hop Garden. The brewery’s taproom is located in Paoli, and the Hop Garden farm is located south of Belleville. Hop Garden beers are brewed in collaboration with House of Brews in Madison.
Style: American wheat beers range in color from straw to amber. The more they are filtered, the less cloudy they appear. Some are even clear. Although they’re made with a weizen yeast, American wheats are commonly subdued in yeasty aroma and flavor, more so than German versions like the Bavarian hefeweizen. American wheats often range in strength from 3.8 to 5 percent ABV, and are usually not considered a hoppy or bitter beer.
Background: Sorachi Ace hops were developed in the 1980s in Japan, thus the “Rising Sun” name for Hop Garden’s latest beer. Rich Joseph planted a few acres of them on his Belleville farm a little more than two years ago. It usually takes about three years for hop plants to mature and begin producing enough flowers to harvest. However, Joseph got a small yield last year, enough to make Rising Sun and even sell some to other brewers. “They are not a very aggressive hop,”says Joseph. “They take more time and attention so few other Wisconsin farmers have tried to grow them.”
Sorachi Ace hops impart a distinctive lemon character. It’s a citrus contribution that is suited for an American wheat. Americans sometimes serve wheat beer with a slice of lemon on the lip of the glass. If you like that, I’d suggest trying Rising Sun without the extra slice of fruit. Sip this beer and allow the lemon from the Sorachi Ace hops to emerge.
Using the Japanese hops in a wheat beer has been Joseph’s vision for a while. He planted Sorachi Ace on his Belleville farm for that specific reason. “This is a beer that we worked on most of last winter doing test batches,” he says.
Rising Sun also has a touch of Magnum hops that offer just a hint of bitterness against the citrus tones of the Sorachi Ace. The beer is made with about 40 percent wheat in the grist, which adds to its cloudy appearance. Joseph also chose an American wheat ale yeast that’s known for helping the flavor stay crisp and clean, and somewhat dry in the finish.
Rising Sun finishes at 5.9 percent ABV, and despite all its attention on the lemony Sorachi Ace hops it remains subdued in bitterness at an estimated 10 IBUs (International Bitterness Units).
Hop Garden Rising Sun is available only on draft this summer. If it gains an audience, Joseph will consider packaging it next year. It’s currently available in the Hop Garden’s taproom in Paoli, House of Brews in Madison and around town in a handful of craft beer bars. It generally sells for around $5/pint.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Light hint of lemon and citrus.
- Appearance: Cloudy, bright yellow-golden color. A bubbly, off-white head.
- Texture: It looks thick; however, this is a light- to medium-bodied beer that’s crisp and bubbly.
- Taste: A touch of yeasty floral sweetness up front. However, the citrus-lemon accent of hoppy bitterness can be found throughout the flavor profile.
- Finish/Aftertaste: The light bitterness and hints of lemon linger, and so does a mild, yet firm dryness.
Glassware: a traditional shapely weizen glass or tulip pint (think Guinness). I especially like the weizen glass for this beer because it shows off the brilliant yellow-golden color and its inward flare to the lip bring the hints of lemon from the Sorachi Ace hops to the nose.
Pairs well with: fresh, non-aged cheeses like feta, mascarpone and ricotta. Lighter cheeses are great with the softer flavors of the wheat and Rising Sun’s light citrus and lemon accents.
The Verdict: Rising Sun is a fresh, crisp, citrus take on an American wheat. The Sorachi Ace hops give it a bright tangy lemon aroma and flavor. There’s still a nice background of yeasty fruity sweetness that reminds you this is a wheat beer, while the citrus notes brighten the overall experience. It’s a summer beer worth looking for.
