Robin Shepard
Grumpy Troll brewmaster Mark Knoebl just tapped his seasonal Belgian golden ale, Monk, at the Mount Horeb brewpub. Thanks to meeting with a Slovenian hop grower at a German brewing convention, Knoebl now has a supply of hard-to-get Styrian Golding hops with which he makes Monk.
What is it? Monk from the Grumpy Troll Brewpub and Pizzeria in Mount Horeb.
Style: Belgian blonde or Belgian golden ales are straw to deep golden-colored and medium-bodied. They often have light, spicy, yeasty sweetness in their aroma and flavor. They may also offer a crisp dry finish. Despite having the look of a lighter-bodied beer, these beers often range from 6 to 8 percent ABV. When “strong” is used in the description, such as “Belgian Golden Strong,” expect them to be on the high side of that range or stronger.
Background: Knoebl traveled to Germany last fall to attend the Brau Convention, a brewing trade show, to look for European ingredients and especially those that can be difficult for a small brewpub like the Grumpy Troll to obtain. “I was able to strike up a deal with a Slovenian grower for a couple hundred pounds of Styrian Golding hops,” says Knoebl. Those hops provide the background for many Belgian ales, and are revered for their herbal, earthy, spicy qualities. “We really have a hard time getting them,” he says. . “They are distinctive and complement the malts and the yeast,” says Knoebl. He also uses those hops in a few of his other beers like Maggie (IIPA) and Captain Fred (pilsner).
Once he and the grower were in agreement, Knoebl worked with a hop broker in California to get them sent to WisconsinMonk is made with pilsner malt and fermented with a Belgian yeast strain. That combination lends subtle sweetness and fruity notes. Monk is a seasonal beer for the Grumpy Troll. It’s been tweaked slightly over the years. In the latest batch Knoebl chose not to use Belgian candi sugar as he has in previous versions. That resulted in less alcohol strength and more emphasis on the spicy qualities of the yeast and hops.
Monk is expected to remain on tap at the Grumpy Troll through September. It finishes at 6.4 percent ABV with an estimated 20 IBUs (International Bitterness Units). It sells for $4.50/glass, $9/32 ounce howler (refill), and $15/ 64 ounce growler (refill).
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A light floral, earthy yeastiness.
Appearance: Cloudy golden color, a little more cloudy than what one might expect for the style. A thick, bubbly white head.
Texture: Light- to medium-bodied, crisp and bubbly.
Taste: Fruity yeastiness with an earthy, spicy background that adds complexity to its flavor.
Finish/Aftertaste: Light herbal spiciness from the Styrian Golding hops.
Glassware: The Grumpy Troll serves Monk in a Belgian tulip snifter, similar to a brandy snifter with a slight outward flare of the lip. That glass shows off the bright golden color and frothy white head.
Pairs well with: light sandwiches and wraps. From the Grumpy Troll menu, match it with the chicken Caesar or garden wrap. I also like it with the mild soft nutty sweetness of a fontina/fontal.
The Verdict: Monk’s fruity, spicy sweetness makes this an inviting Belgian ale. Also Knoebl’s decision to tone down the alcohol content in this year’s batch makes it even more appealing. The Styrian Golding hops lend a distinctive light, spicy, herbal, grassy aroma; however, this beer is really about the bready pilsner malt and Belgian yeast that provide the bulk of flavor. It’s light- to medium-bodied with bubbly crispness and that makes it ideal for the Grumpy Troll’s beer garden, or as a backyard patio beer if you take home a growler.