Scott Hanna
“We’re not changing our name to Lager Asylum just yet,” says Ale Asylum co-owner Otto Dilba. However, the brewery that’s given us hop-forward ales like Hopalicious, Ballistic and Satisfaction Jacksin is now getting noticed for its initial foray into lagers. Ale Asylum’s latest, Oktillion Oktoberfest, is made in the tradition of a fall German lager, and it just hit local shelves this week.
What is it? Oktillion Oktoberfest from Ale Asylum Brewing of Madison.
Style: The Oktoberfest, or Märzen, is medium-bodied with rich golden to light copper color. It is a clean and well-balanced lager, with a medium sweet maltiness balanced with the light hoppy herbal spiciness of German hops. Oktoberfests range from 5% to 6% ABV. Historically, before modern refrigeration practices, Märzens were brewed in March and stored (lagered) until fall. Among the earliest references to Märzens being brewed refer to beers made to celebrate the wedding of Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen on Oct. 17, 1810, that gave rise to the tradition of Oktoberfest festivities in Bavaria.
While these beers are about a balanced maltiness, there’s considerable debate over the historic evolution of the style. Traditional Oktoberfests are often described as a little more amber in color, richer and slightly stronger than what mainstream versions have become. Some American craft brewers take this even a step further in going for a malty richness. There is also the slightly lighter and more sessionable “fest” style of Oktoberfest beer that has been made famous in the beer tents of the modern Oktoberfest celebration in Munich.
Background: Oktillion is the first lager packaged in bottles by Ale Asylum. Fans of the brewery are likely aware it has turned out other lagers like Mai the Bock Be With You this past spring, and before that Bamboozleator. However, those beers have been rather limited production runs and draft-only releases.
Oktillion is an Oktoberfest with a solid German backbone of Munich, Vienna and Pilsner malts with German Hallertau hops. Brewer Joe Walts created the recipe. “We were looking for a traditional Oktoberfest and one that would stand up against German examples,” he says. Oktillion does just that. It focuses on a smooth, bready maltiness that’s subtle yet solid. If your frame of reference is a darker, sweeter type of Oktoberfest, Oktillion is cleaner, with more balance, and more golden than amber.
While it might seem early to start finding “October”-named beers in August, that’s the trend for Märzen in the U.S. Ale Asylum brewmaster Dean Coffee says his distributors pushed hard for an early August release because drinkers want their Oktoberfests earlier and earlier. It’s become a bit of a race to see who gets there first on shelves. “The market goes crazy for it in late summer and early fall, then loses all interest.” Oktillion is well above average for the style, so interest should be strong. Oktillion finishes at 6% ABV and it sells for $9-$10/six-pack.
Oktillion made its debut last week on the taps at Dexter’s Pub, where it also was used to make the tavern’s batter for its Wednesday and Friday night fish fry.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Light bready biscuity maltiness.
Appearance: Clear, vivid golden color. A modest, bubbly, soft, light tan head.
Texture: Medium-bodied, bubbly, round with softness.
Taste: A light and smooth bready sweetness that’s up front also becomes the backbone of this beer. There’s a light herbal hoppiness that adds a touch of spicy pepper accent in the background for balance.
Finish/Aftertaste: The pleasant inviting light maltiness lingers a bit in the end. However, this is a very clean and well-balanced beer.
Glassware: This Oktoberfest is worthy of the traditional stein.
Pairs well with: The Oktoberfest is a wonderful meal beer, and so is Oktillion. Like most good versions of the style, it will go well with pork and sausage. When pairing with cheeses, try it with a Stilton.
The Verdict: I enjoy the Oktoberfest style because it’s a lager that showcases malt while remaining clean and balanced. There’s a mild bready sweetness about Oktoberfests that doesn’t linger. Ale Asylum’s Oktillion hits all the right notes with its deep golden color, smooth malty flavor and touch of earthy graininess in the finish. It avoids being cloying or sticky sweet, like so many dark American versions of the style. Ale Asylum brings to mind the beers actually served in Munich during Oktoberfest. It’s very sessionable and every bit as good as stalwarts like Spaten, Paulaner and even my favorite Oktoberfest from Augustiner.
