Robin Shepard
Smoke on the Porter carefully uses smoke in the German Rauchbier tradition without getting carried away.
What is it? Smoke on the Porter from New Glarus Brewing Company.
Style: Porters range from brown to deep black in color. The style dates back to the 1700s, when it was a favorite beer of the porters who worked the London shipyards. They will range from medium- to full-bodied and are a showcase for the dark malts that give them their color. They commonly finish 4%-6% ABV.
Adding smoke to the aroma and flavor of beer can be challenging for brewers. Smoked beers, or rauchbiers, have various strengths. The amount of perceived smoke depends upon not only the underlying beer style, but also the type and intensity of the malt, the amount of malt used, the type of wood used to roast the malt and the length of the time that the roasting occurs. Rauchbiers are not themselves a style; smoked beers are found across a range of beer styles. They fall into two types: those that resemble smoked cheeses or meats and those that are more reminiscent of a campfire.
Background: Smoke on the Porter made its debut back in 2007. That year I picked it as one of my most surprising finds.
New Glarus brewmaster Dan Carey starts off with a fairly standard porter recipe, blending together Munich, pilsner, caramel and dark chocolate malts. To that he adds cherrywood smoked malt from Wisconsin’s Briess Malting Company, which ends up being about one-third of the total grist. “I wanted the smoked flavor to be evident in the forefront, but not to the point you’re overwhelmed,” says Carey. “It’s a marriage of the smoke with the malts.”
The beer is hopped only with Northern Brewer, which adds a hint of spicy herbal woodiness. However, make no mistake — this beer is about the malt. Chocolate and caramel sweetness mingle with the firm smoky background of that cherrywood. It’s not a heavy beer, yet still flavorful, with lots of silky smooth body. While it might be tempting to cellar or age this beer, my preference is to enjoy the smoke while this beer’s aromatic qualities are fresh.
New Glarus Smoke on the Porter finishes at 6.5% ABV. It sells in four-packs for around $11. It’s expected to be on sale into November.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: The chocolate malt comes out first; then there’s a lighter whiff of a woody smokiness, as from a campfire.
Appearance: Black body with a thick, soft, chocolate milk-like head.
Texture: Medium-bodied, soft and silky, which helps accentuate the soft malt and smoke tones. There’s a light alcohol warmth, enough to remind drinkers of its 6.5% ABV.
Taste: A smooth chocolate maltiness is up front. The smoke starts there in the beginning and builds toward the finish. The smoke is a smooth component within the overall flavor.
Finish/Aftertaste: The soft chocolate and bready maltiness continues. The smoke blends well with the semi-sweet dark malts. There’s even a hint of roasted cherry way in the background. While there’s smoke in the finish, it doesn’t stain or overstay its welcome on the palate.
Glassware: As a nod to the English origins of the porter, enjoy this beer in the British (nonic) pint glass. If it’s served warmer than refrigerator temperature, you’ll discover more maltiness. When a bottle is opened and allowed to come to room temperature, allowing it to breathe, it loses carbonation and it becomes even softer, smoother and smokier.
Pairs well with: You’ll want to try the first few sips on its own to appreciate how well the cherrywood smoked malt balances with the other malts in this beer. If you enjoy beer and cheese, look for a straightforward young Gouda. Avoid cheeses (and other foods) that add more smoke, which will create a competition of burnt and roasted flavors.
The Verdict: Don’t let the smoke in the name discourage you from trying this beer, especially if you’re a fan of porters and/or German rauchbiers. There’s certainly smoke, but this beer remains an easy drinking porter that hits all the right notes as a dark beer this time of year. I like the finesse of the smoked malt — it’s so much more than just being an add-on or chic accent. It enhances this beer.
