Robin Shepard
Brewmaster Scott Manning of Vintage Brewing is well known for his venturesome, sometimes whimsical, beer recipes. He’s a brewer who’s not afraid to produce what even craft brewers consider offbeat, like a saison made with hibiscus petals or a rare Finnish sahti (both of which are currently on tap at Vintage on the west side). but Manning outdoes himself with this difficult beer, a helles based on an ale
What is it? Kindled Spirits from Vintage Brewing Company.
Style: The helles (“light-colored” in German) is clear, bright golden to straw-colored, medium-bodied, and with an emphasis on balance in the malts and low hoppiness. In Germany, helles is often used to describe lagers and pilsners. A helles is often lighter in strength, too, from 4.5% to 5.5%. “Rauchbier” means “smoked beer” in German.
Background: A good rauchbier has a strong smokiness, but you never forget you’re drinking a beer. A little smoke can go a long way. It’s an even tougher task for a brewer to make a smoked beer that’s based on a light-bodied golden ale or lager. In the U.S., rauchbiers are more commonly made as offshoots of the more robust porters and stouts.
Manning’s approach to Kindled Spirits displays his creativity and ability to deliver on a difficult beer. The golden ale is such a light clean beer on its own that it would be easy to overdo the smoked malts. Manning works from the long tradition of a German rauchbier. He uses malts that are floor-roasted over beechwood fires from a maltster in Heidelburg: “I’m trying to stay as true as possible,” says Manning. “I want to know that the wood they are using was grown right there.”
That specialty malt makes up about a third of the total grist, which also includes German Pilsner and Vienna malts. For hops, Manning stays close to German convention too by choosing Tettnanger, which lend a nice spice and pepper complement to the smoke. “I wanted a little something extra in hops for the smoke to hang onto,” says Manning.
Smoked beers are often described in one of two ways. Either they’re reminiscent of smoked cheeses or meats, especially bacon; or they are compared to a more aggressive campfire smoke. Kindled Spirits falls more into the smoked meat category.
Also important is how long the smoke lingers on the palate. Smoke, and especially deep, burnt campfire tones, will taint the taste buds so much that anything that follows also seems roasted and burnt. That lingering effect might be okay in a big stout, but it’s not so welcome in lighter-bodied beers, where the smoke is intended to be an accent. For Kindled Spirits, Manning seeks to complement the light-bodied background beer. “I want an approachable smoked beer, something that will surprise people who say they don’t like smoked beer,” he says.
Kindled Spirits finishes at 5.7% ABV and an estimated 21 IBUs. It sells in the west side brewpub for $5/pint, $7.50 crowler and $14/growler (refill).
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Firm, yet mild, smokiness (think smoked cheese or meats).
Appearance: Clear, bright golden color. A modest, soft, white-to-tan soft head.
Texture: Medium- to light-bodied, crisp and bubbly.
Taste: A smooth smoky beginning with a firm underpinning of spicy Tettnanger hops.
Finish/Aftertaste: For a smoked beer its finish is remarkably clean and crisp. You certainly get a wave of smoked meat, but it really doesn’t linger long or stain the taste buds.
Glassware: If bringing this beer home in the growler or crowler, it’s best to pour it into a Willi Becher because the gentle inward taper of the lip will focus the smoked malt aroma.
Pairs well with: This is a great beer with cheese. A sharp cheddar or stilton is a solid choice. Shy away from dishes that attempt to compete with their own smoke. If you add more smoke, you’ll lose how this beer uses smoke as an accent.
The Verdict: Making a helles version of a rauchbier is all about finesse, and Manning delivers with creative flair and precision. At the core of Kindled Spirits is a light golden ale that’s clean, crisp and well-balanced. While initially its smoke seems assertive in aroma, it never overwhelms the drinker. There’s an obvious bacon-like flavor, especially in the finish. Through it all, the background beer provides a solid, crisp backbone. In the end, the smoke in is there but it doesn’t stain the palate. I like this beer because you can have a pint and still follow it up with another beer or food and not have the smoke linger. This is a fun beer for summer, and it’s well worth stopping by Vintage for one.
