Kwanzaa
Milele Chikasa Anana has been celebrating Kwanzaa, a seven-day festival that begins on Dec. 26 and ends on Jan. 1, since 1970. The African American and Pan African holiday was established in 1966 and takes cues from ancient first harvest celebrations of Africa.
"Harvesting and planting ceremonies are traditional in African countries," says Anana. "Food plays a very important part." During the seven days, a table remains set with symbolic foods such as corn, which stands for the next generation, and a major feast takes place on the last day. Anana cites a tempting list of soul food she and others bring for a potluck: collard greens, macaroni and cheese, black-eyed peas. "Mama always made black-eyed peas to multiply our blessings for the coming year."
While Anana offers a general recipe for black-eyed peas ("It's all about the seasoning"), she defers to her friend Edith Hilliard for specifics. "You'll want to talk to her for a more exact recipe," she says. "Edith organizes the Kwanzaa celebration at Olbrich; it's her baby." This year, the celebration at Olbrich Gardens takes place Dec. 27.
Edith Hilliard's Black-Eyed Peas
Serves 8-10
1 pound bag black-eyed peas ("Separate them out because sometimes rocks get in there or bad ones"), soak overnight
3 smoked ham hocks ("They must be smoked!")
1 medium onion, chopped
salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion powder to taste
In a Dutch oven, add the smoked ham hocks to 8 cups boiling water. Add onion. Pour in the black-eyed peas. Add seasonings to taste. Cook for 45 minutes to one hour.
