It's a culinary given that crops that ripen at the same time in the field inherently go together in the kitchen. Cooks pair certain ones like peas and lettuce in spring, or leeks and potatoes in fall, to produce classic seasonal dishes. During the superabundance of July and August the combos can get more creative and complex - we plate up a mosaic of grilled summer vegetables, for instance, or compose a multi-layered salad.
Another way to blend the flavors of the season is in a stew. I'm not talking here about the slow-cooked, taste-better-on-the-second-day stews of cold-weather times; I mean the ones that go from chopping board to stovetop in minutes, that are simmered briefly and served right away.
These are summer stews, the kind that feature a farmers' market worth of peak-season veggies and fresh herbs, that need only a loaf of focaccia or multi-grain sourdough to complete the meal. They're ideal for those rare cool and rainy evenings, or on a deep-heat day when it's too steamy to grill outdoors and inside the house you have the air conditioning set on high.
There are two dishes I make nearly every year around this time: one a braise of Italian sausage, chunky vegetables and basil, the other a tomato-based seafood stew with sweet corn, summer squash and hot peppers. I love them both for their bold flavor and big nutrition, for their casual presentation and celebratory feel. Also, for the way they elicit the question "Can I have the recipe?" from my guests.
Easy, almost instinctual to prepare, the recipes are really more outlines - you can vary the amounts and ingredients as your whim (or the CSA box) dictates. The beauty is, when what's in season is what's in the mix, your stew will taste just like a summer day.
Italian Sausage and Summer Vegetable Hot Pot
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 pound Italian sausage links
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 teaspoon each fennel seeds and hot paprika
- 1 large onion, sliced
- 1-1/2 pounds small yellow potatoes, thickly sliced
- 1 fennel bulb, cored, quartered and sliced
- 2 sweet peppers, chunked
- 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- 1 cup dry red wine
- small fistful of fresh basil, chopped
- salt and pepper to taste
- grated Parmesan
Heat oil in large, wide pot over medium flame. Add sausages, brown well and remove to a plate. Add bay leaves, fennel and paprika; stir and cook a moment. Stir in onions, potatoes and fennel slices. Cook, stirring often, 6-10 minutes. Cut sausages into thick rounds; add to pot. Stir in peppers, tomatoes, garlic and wine. Bring to simmer, cover, reduce to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender, another 20-30 minutes. Add basil, salt and pepper. Serve immediately or let stew stand an hour or so to develop flavor, then reheat it. Top each serving with Parmesan. Makes 5-6 servings.
Peak Season Tomato Seafood Stew
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1/2 large sweet Spanish onion, chopped
- 1-2 tablespoons minced garlic
- 8 large, meaty tomatoes, peeled and seeded (or not), pureed
- 2 two-by-one-inch pieces lemon peel or 3 six-inch pieces lemongrass
- 3 small hot peppers, minced
- 1/2 cup dry white wine or juice of 1 lemon
- 1/2 pound mini patty pan squash, quartered (about 1-1/2 cups total)
- 1-1/2 cups fresh corn kernels
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh lemon thyme
- salt and pepper to taste
- 1 pound tilapia or other fish, cut into chunks
- 1/2 pound sea scallops, quartered
- 1-1/2 pounds mussels
Heat oil in a very large, heavy pot over medium flame. Add onions and cook, stirring frequently, several minutes. Add garlic and cook until onions are wilted, a few more minutes. Add tomatoes, lemon peel or lemongrass, bay leaves, hot peppers and wine or lemon juice. Raise heat, bring mixture to simmer and let it bubble gently about 20 minutes. Stir in squash and corn; simmer 3-5 minutes. Stir in fresh herbs, salt, pepper and fish; simmer about 3 minutes. Stir in scallops; scatter mussels over surface, cover tightly and simmer briskly 3-5 minutes, until mussels have opened. Serve in large soup plates (and tell your diners to remove the lemon peel or lemongrass pieces if they find them). Makes 8 servings.