When it comes to restaurant decor, do you enjoy an eclectic mix of primary colors, corrugated metal, sombreros, giant fish and flat-screen TVs? Then you should check out Fuzzy's. If not, perhaps you will enjoy crude slogans or Badger sports memorabilia. They have those, too.
I snark, but really, decor's not so important when you're going out for a couple of two-buck tacos. The tacos are the thing. Unfortunately, Fuzzy's is all over the map in this regard as well.
The first time I went to Fuzzy's I was blown away by the freshness and flavor of their grilled fish taco. The garlic shredded beef taco was juicy and savory too, and I walked away feeling like I'd discovered a great secret (albeit one already known to thousands of Texans). In several subsequent visits, I have not been able to replicate the deliciousness of that meal or create any semblance of what I'd call a good one.
Grease is a hallmark of many of Fuzzy's menu items. An enchilada plate came weighing about a half pound more due to the quantity of melted cheese. I longed for a juice fast. One item I would try again was a huge salad, this one with grilled shrimp and avocado ranch dressing. You can still get your Tex-Mex fix, but walk out of the joint with your belt buckled on the same hole it was on when you came in.
With the exception of the breakfast tacos, which load up on melted cheese and slick chunks of potato, the tacos are one notable (and welcome) exception to the grease overload. The tempura fish had a nice crunchy batter but was only slightly warm, and the rest of the cold ingredients shut it down entirely. The grilled veggie taco's filling was overseasoned and oversalted.
Despite the greasiness, I did enjoy a breakfast taco, a soft tortilla crammed with scrambled eggs, potatoes and cheese. The eggs buffer the grease effectively. It's a perfect hangover or post-snowshoeing breakfast (available all day, as are migas, chilaquiles and other breakfast favorites). My second batch of tacos, which included grilled fish, chicken and shredded beef, were noticeably better - the tortillas were markedly fresher and softer - but still the chicken was bland and dry. Thirty-three percent is not a passing taco rate.
Moving on from tacos, Fuzzy's jumbo burritos are a lot of food for the money, and come with guacamole, tomatoes, lettuce and garlic sauce. Sadly, a bean and cheese burrito went over like a lump. The garlic beef sandwich was a better bet, with a good bun and enough sauce on the meat to create a balanced bite. A side of potatoes was greasy, as expected, while a side of black beans was merely boring.
The other hallmark of the food at Fuzzy's is a forceful tug of war between bland and way overseasoned. One bite of the grilled veggie taco was enough to make me protect my taste buds from further spice and salt annihilation. All the different bean sides - black beans, refried pintos and "borracho" beans swimming in beer - were nearly tasteless. It's a pity, because a couple of fish tacos plus a decent side of beans would have been enough to get me to come back.
Surpassing the quality of all other items are the baskets of warm tortilla chips and a very generous portion of fresh, chunky guacamole, with twice the quantity of the guac at Tex Tubb's (at half the price), and with no lettuce hiding in the bottom to boost the volume. The queso is also tasty if somewhat tame.
The sole item available for dessert is a praline. Have some more guacamole or queso instead.
I hate to harsh on Fuzzy's, because it's not trying to be anything other than a fun, inexpensive taco joint. But even if you're only dropping a few bucks for lunch, it needs to be at least a decent value. I've seen, here and there, glimmers of wonderful at Fuzzy's. I hope that with time that will become the rule rather than the exception.