Candice Wagener
A Greek salad gains heft with an optional falafel add-on.
I’ve joked that the building at the corner of Branch Street and Century Avenue is under the “curse of the Branch Street Retreat.” That bar was a mainstay in Middleton for years. Since it closed in 2014, three restaurants have proven less than viable in that spot. So I was pleased when I heard that a Middleton resident, Adrienne Hulburt-Stroud, had plans to transform the space into a community center that would also include food, to be called Common Ground.
Since Common Ground’s soft opening in January, the parking lot has been consistently busier than it has been in the 14 years we’ve lived in the neighborhood. Granted, Hulburt-Stroud has opened the lot to people accessing the adjacent trailhead to the Pheasant Branch Conservancy. But a trip inside the building confirms that Common Ground is a busy place in its own right, with a calendar full of events.
There are several yoga classes, including a “Pour a Glass” class offered by Phoenix Song Yoga — a flow class followed by a social hour, with drinks. Support groups for dads, moms, people dealing with depression — all meet here. Suite 101 Experiences holds creative lunches, allowing people to unwind and meditate with watercolors mid-day. With 6,500 square feet and two stories, there’s plenty of room.
There is also a cafe. While it serves mainly breakfast and lunch fare, much of the menu is available until closing. There’s also a Friday fish fry with battered cod, breaded perch — and salmon, for a fun twist. I’m pleased to see many local products featured on the menu: Just Coffee, Sjolinds Chocolate, baked goods from Monona Bakery and Eatery, meats from Conscious Carnivore and dairy from Sassy Cow, just to name a few. Beverages includes 10 tap beers, bottled beer, wine and Bloody Marys.
I love the cozy, home-like feel of the main dining room, filled with an eclectic mix of tables and chairs, even some with needlepoint cushions. A stage at the rear often showcases local talent. During the grand opening, we were delighted to eat lunch accompanied by the music of Boo Bradley, taking us back to the days when we would push our boys around the farmers’ market in the double stroller and listen to the washboard soundings of this Madison gem.
Brunch on Sundays from 9 a.m.-2 p.m. has a smaller manu, but there’s still a good selection. Traditional items like pancakes and corned beef hash are joined by original dishes like a Benedict burger, which combines the classic eggs benedict ingredients with a choice of a beef, chicken, sweet potato and black bean or falafel patty.
The delectable Monte Cristo is made with french toast and filled with ham, swiss cheese, caramelized onions and spinach. It comes with a side of slightly spicy maple syrup.
A variety of salads are all very customizable. I enjoyed the kale Caesar salad with chicken, with greens, shredded parmesan, croutons and chicken, but it could have used more dressing. The Greek salad is based on spinach, with tomato, red onion, cucumbers, kalamata olives and a generous sprinkling of crumbled feta. Tzatziki as a dressing was on point. Four crispy falafel balls add some heft.
I appreciate inventive burgers, and Common Ground won me over. There’s the Benedict and the Greek, made with the same ingredients as its namesake salad, with the exception of olives. True, that burger was a mess halfway in, but I would guess most people who order burgers with this many toppings expect them to get messy. The Southwest burger (with taco seasoning mixed into the patty) comes with chipotle lime mayo, avocado slices, and fresh pico de gallo. I was also pleasantly surprised with the vegan pulled BBQ jackfruit sandwich. The slight flavor of pineapple in the jackfruit comes through, and the texture is similar to shredded pork.
New England clam chowder was also a standout: creamy and rich, with big chunks of carrot, potato, celery and clam meat.
The kitchen does need to improve its timing. Both times I dined with companions, the dishes came out awkwardly staggered. Nobody likes this scenario — especially families with young children, and they are a major customer base at Common Ground. No matter how welcoming or homey the space is, if this pattern continues, diners will stop eating here.
Common Ground is a welcome addition to the neighborhood. It pulls off a nice mix of familiar and inventive — flavorful comfort foods that fit the atmosphere perfectly. If the kitchen can increase its productivity and get timing under control, any talk of a curse will become just a fading memory.
Common Ground
2644 Branch St., Middleton; 608-820-1010; commongroundmiddleton.blog
6:30 am-9 pm Mon.-Thurs., 6:30 am-10 pm Fri., 7 am-10 pm Sat., 7 am-4 pm Sun.
Accessible entrance to the right of the building. $3-$15