Stephanie Hofmann
Getting a cup of Turkish coffee at Hüsnü’s, Madison’s only Turkish restaurant, used to be a favorite ritual. Now that Hüsnü’s is gone, though, you can still get a demitasse of Turkish coffee nearby — at Kabul, upstairs at 540 State St.
Turkish coffee is not a kind of bean; it’s a method of preparation. And an ancient one. You know the grocery store bean grinder’s setting on the far, far right? That’s the setting for Turkish coffee, the finest grind available. The brew is made without a filter, with the boiling water mixed with the coffee until the grounds sink to the bottom. A good cup should have a decent layer of foam on the top, and the rest should not be gritty. The grounds will settle at the bottom of the cup. Do not drink the grounds.
Kabul’s new digs make a nice space to sip a cup midafternoon, maybe at the pleasant bar, accompanied by a slice of baklava and a book. The cup is made fresh and takes a little while. The result is thick but not chalky, sweet but not too sweet, and not at all bitter. It’s less potent than a shot of espresso, less sweet than a flavored latte. Kabul’s cup is mellow: an invitation to sit, think, and enjoy.