Paulius Musteikis
New favorite? Tacos banderas with arugula, strawberries and chevre crème.
Walking into the tailored, urban-loft-meets-the-Southwest decor of the new Pasqual’s Cantina on East Washington Avenue might be initially disconcerting. The quirky desert iconography I’ve always associated with Pasqual’s locations — turquoise and pink walls, wobbly farmhouse tables — is gone.
Instead, an impressively large wrap-around bar dominates the main dining room, set off nicely by a high ceiling and exposed Cream City brick walls. The subdued color palette makes a more sophisticated nod to the Southwest. Like your hippie cousin getting a haircut, a suit and a job, Pasqual’s appears to have grown up.
The genius of Pasqual’s — and the reason the restaurant has had such staying power in a competitive market — is that it works well for a cheap date night as well as a meal with the family where Mommy and Daddy can enjoy a big margarita while the kids get their mini cheese quesadillas. Predictability has been an asset for this local chain that signifies Southwest-flavored comfort food to a generation of Madisonians. The salsas and chips, arguably Pasqual’s claim to fame, are excellent and still house-made; the standard tacos, burritos, quesadillas, beans and New Mexican rice are reasonably priced and served in generous portions; and the nachos are every bit the guilty pleasure they ought to be.
The new Cantina, while preserving the old favorites, has created some new small-plate dishes clearly designed to please the happy hour crowd. Called “Street Food” on the menu, the five singly-served tacos and Oaxacan shrimp mini tostadas offer some new and welcome flavors.
The taco cerdito combines pork carnitas with grilled sweet onions, a bright chimichurri, smoky chile morita and the surprise tang of feta. Another successful combination comes with the taco irie — jerk chicken covered with peppery-sweet pineapple salsa, grilled jalapeño and a bit of cream on a corn tortilla. For the mini tostadas, served three on a plate, the flavor of the grilled shrimp is not overwhelmed by layers of black bean puree and a tomatillo avocado salsa.
On the regular menu, the tacos come with mildly hot New Mexican rice, with more than a hint of smoked chile and your choice of black beans or pinto bean mash. New on the menu, the tacos banderas deserve to become a favorite. Chicken breast marinated in green chiles comes wrapped in a flour tortilla with strawberries and arugula, with chevre crème and a splash of balsamic vinaigrette. The result? Tart and creamy, with hints of the strawberry sweetness and light heat. The Cantina also puts out a respectable fish taco, grilled ancho-flavored cod served in a flour tortilla with crunchy slaw and salsa picante.
Among the old standbys, Pasqual’s quesadillas have always been a highlight. Generously filled, they hold together without overdoing the cheese and are grilled to a perfect crispness. The black bean soup makes a great lighter meal with a hunk of blue corn bread. And for those who want more in the way of veggies, there is the Kalefornian salad, a toss of kale and arugula in an orange and jalapeño vinaigrette, topped with roasted beets, avocado and pine nuts.
A full array of margaritas and other drinks from the Latin American bar tradition lead the Cantina’s cocktail menu. The house margaritas are made with fresh lime and other juices, and though the recipe may be a bit too heavy on the agave syrup for some palates, they still go down pretty easily. The pint glass serving size justifies the $8.75 price. A nice, less sweet alternative might be the Mayora Reserva margarita. Made with El Mayor tequila blended with fresh lime juice, agave and blood orange liqueur, it arrives a pleasing shade of sunset pink in a rocks glass.
In the main dining/bar room, the high ceilings and brick walls create a lively urban feel on a busy night. In other words, it can get pretty loud in there. And while the Cantina is still working out some bugs in their service, the staff is friendly and inviting. With well-advertised happy hour specials and the addition of its lighter street food menu, the Cantina should make an easygoing choice for after-work socializing on the East Washington corridor.
Pasqual’s Cantina
1344 E. Washington Ave., 608-819-8002, pasqualscantina.com
11 am-9 pm Mon.-Sat., $2-$13
