Beerntsen’s
Wisconsin has its premier vacation destinations — Egg Harbor, Madeline Island, Bayfield, Lake Geneva — and they are all worthwhile. Manitowoc does not usually crop up on this list.
But why in heaven’s name not?
Manitowoc and its twin city, Two Rivers, are both on Lake Michigan. Together they boast miles of lakefront bike path, long sandy beaches, interesting museums, a marina, as good a stable of Wisconsin fish fry taverns as anywhere in the state, and, for those who get into photographing abandoned factories, it has some of the best ruin porn in the state — not that the chamber of commerce is going to trumpet that. Manitowoc means “supernatural being” or “spirit” in the Algonquin language. It might not be supernatural, but it is a special kind of place. And it’s just a two-and-a-half hour drive east of Madison.
Because you’ve been driving and you’re hot and hungry by the time you get to Manitowoc, drive past the Culver’s et.al. on the edge of town and head downtown to Beerntsen’s, an old-timey ice cream parlor and candy shop that’s “It’s a Wonderful Life”-perfect, right down to the beautiful oak woodwork and booths. The cases in front hold truffles, turtles, caramels and toffee. The Beerntsen cookie, a speculoos topped with rich milk chocolate, may be the most delicious flavor combo you’ve never tried. But the ice cream is rich and creamy, and inexpensive. A huge double scoop in a waffle cone is just $2.50; sundaes are just $4.
The shop opened in 1932. The confectioners use copper kettles and wooden paddles in making hard candies. Other equipment is original, too, and “irreplacable,” according to the shop’s official history. The chocolates are hand-dipped. As with any soda fountain, classic soup and sandwiches are also on the menu.
Heather Treige
Point Beach State Forest
Point Beach State Forest
While there are a series of small beaches from Manitowoc north along Lake Michigan, the big one at Point Beach State Forest, just north of Two Rivers, is the premier swim/sun/sand destination. Six miles of beach, including a dog-friendly area, are joined by 17 miles of hiking trail among forest covered sand ridges. Five miles of the Ice Age Trail are also located within the park.
The beach is big enough not to be crowded except on the busiest of summer weekends, and even then, crowds tend to gather at the easiest access points near the parking areas. Beachcombing the entire length of shore, you’ll be sure to find some private spot. Swimming is good, even if Lake Michigan’s water is not as crystal clear here as it is farther north in Door County.
The picture-perfect Rawley’s Point Lighthouse is great for atmosphere, but as it’s a working lighthouse, there are no tours. It’s at the south end parking lot, on the way to the dog beach.
Mariner’s Trail
Visitors can bike from Manitowoc north to Two Rivers and even all the way to Point Beach along the lake via the seven-mile Mariner’s Trail, a paved multi-use path that welcomes rollerbladers, joggers and leashed pets, too. Telescopes along the way offer the opportunity to gaze out to Lake Michigan and see a ship or sailboat up close.
Just adjacent to the path is the West of the Lake Gardens, six acres of manicured annuals and perennials along Lake Michigan. Free, but no dogs allowed.
At the marina, visitors can rent kayaks, stand-up paddleboards or bicycles. It’s located near the Manitowoc trailhead of the Mariner’s Trail, 425 Maritime Drive, 920-682-5117.
Hamilton Wood Type and Printing Museum
Just across Highway 42 from the Mariner’s Trail in Two Rivers is the Hamilton Wood Type Museum, a massive tribute to the history of wood type in the city. Edward Hamilton started the company in 1878, producing decorative type for newspapers and other printing needs from blocks of Wisconsin hardwoods.
The museum also houses a variety of historical printing presses as well as case after case of beautiful wood type fonts. There is always an exhibit of letterpress printing art, and the museum also offers frequent letterpress and other book arts workshops as well as Friday night social events.
On June 16, the museum hosts an open house, with guided tours at 1 and 3 p.m. and wood type cutting demos at 1:30 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. Visitors are invited to pull a print of their own, and it’s all free on this day.
And if you’re looking for good souvenirs to bring home from this trip for your cat sitter, you can’t do better than the gift shop here, where all manner of letterpress posters, type specimen posters, books and cards are sold. Regular museum hours are Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday, 1 -5 p.m.
Linda Falkenstein
Hamilton Wood Type and Printing Museum
Rahr-West Art Museum
Away from the lake, but worth finding, is this gracious Manitowoc fine art museum located in the historic 19th-century home of former Manitowoc mayor Joseph Vilas. The Queen Anne style mansion houses a collection of some 19th century paintings and 20th century works by Georgia O’Keeffe, Picasso, Miro and Chagall, among others. The museum is open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tues.-Fri. and 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat.-Sun.; admission is free.
Wisconsin Maritime Museum
Living in Madison, you can forget the maritime nature of the eastern side of the state. Delve into that history at this fun museum that is even shaped like a ship.
A restored World War II submarine, the USS Cobia, is the marquee exhibit; guided tours are offered daily. Significantly, during World War II the Manitowoc Shipbuilding Company built 28 submarines for the U.S. Navy; the shipbuilding history of the area is highlighted here. In the Wisconsin-Built Boat Gallery, visitors learn that tradition extends to yachts and other pleasure craft as well as boats meant for business.
The roof deck’s “Sub Pub” is a great place to look at the lake and enjoy the sunset. Beer from Sheboygan’s 3 Sheeps is on tap.
Wisconsin Maritime Museum
Special weekend: Subfest runs July 13-15 and it adds sidewalk sales, fireworks, a lighted boat parade, music, food vendors and more to the usual mix.
The Wisconsin Maritime Museum is open in June daily from 9 a.m.-5 p.m., and in July and August from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Fish dinner
You’re starting to get into whitefish territory around Manitowoc-Two Rivers. To those who worship this Great Lakes fish, that means hitting up a fish fry or seeking it out on the regular menu the other six days of the week. The Courthouse Pub, 1001 S. 8th St. in Manitowoc, has a whitefish dinner daily, locally caught by Susie Q’s Fish Market.