Though the calendar may not say October, the onslaught of Oktoberfests (or märzens) actually began in late July. It’s a seasonal creep that seems to occur earlier every year. “Distributers tell us that the Germans start flooding the market with their märzens in early August, so if you don’t have yours out, you might get lost in the shuffle,” says Wisconsin Brewing’s Kirby Nelson.
My 2015 “six-pack” of Oktoberfests stars some returning favorites and a few new entrants into the Madison market.
Oktoberfest
Bull Falls Brewery, Wausau
I’m most excited about this Oktoberfest appearing for the first time locally. Brewmaster Mike Zamzow uses traditional German decoction techniques during brewing that involve heating the wort to accentuate the crisp dry maltiness for which Oktoberfests are known. That extra attention to detail, coupled with German hops and Vienna malt, adds authenticity to the flavor. The beer has a smooth caramel maltiness and a medium-bodied softness that stands out among Wisconsin Oktoberfests. It’s really an exceptional version of the style; this is at the top of my Oktoberfest favorites.
Staghorn
New Glarus Brewing, New Glarus
Brewmaster Dan Carey makes Staghorn a beer with a rich maltiness, yet it remains balanced and clean. It’s hard to think of fall in Wisconsin — or in Germany — and not consider this seasonal brew among the best of the batch.
Jodlerkönig
Black Husky Brewing, Pembine
Jodlerkönig is brewed as an ale; but forget the style police — it has that fall personality drinkers look for in an Oktoberfest, with solid caramel-malt flavor, yet balance. At 7.1% ABV, it is at the stronger end of these seasonal brews. The name is a reference to the German tradition of crowning a yodel king in fall festivals.
Patron Saint
Wisconsin Brewing Company, Verona
This is a great new beer appearing for the first time on local shelves. It’s a straightforward märzen with smooth maltiness accented with Liberty hops for balance. It offers a pleasant caramel sweetness, clean finish, and, at 5.5% ABV, it’s easy drinking.
Oaktober Ale
Karben4, Madison
First offered in 2013, this fall beer may bend the rules of tradition for the style, but it’s a not-to-miss treat. That’s because brewmaster Ryan Koga makes it as an ale, then adds American and French oak chips to the fermenter. There are nice caramel and biscuit tones of malt, with an ending wave of soft sweet vanilla and oak. I picked this as my favorite beer of 2013. Look for it to appear on draught at the brewery and on tap at a select few local tap houses in late September.
Oktoberfest
Spaten, Munich, Germany
If you’re looking for a German standard for the märzen style, one that’s often mentioned by brewers as a reference beer is Spaten’s. Some will find it lighter in body than its American counterparts; however, it has such smooth maltiness it takes only a sip to understand why this beer is an icon among German festival beers.
