Robin Shepard
Brewmaster Kirby Nelson (left) and brewery president Carl Nolen.
“I don’t think beers should be a fad,” says Kirby Nelson of Wisconsin Brewing. “There’s a reason that people love Oktoberfests.” Nelson has virtually owned this style in Wisconsin since the late 1980s. His new take on the old tradition is called Patron Saint.
What is it? Patron Saint Oktoberfest from Wisconsin Brewing Company
Style: The Oktoberfest, or Märzen, is medium-bodied lager that’s golden to light copper-colored. It is clean and well-balanced, with a modest amount of sweet maltiness that blends with the light herbal and spicy qualities of hops. Oktoberfests range from 5 to 6 percent ABV.
The Märzen became known as a festival beer after being served to celebrate the wedding of Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen on Oct. 17, 1810. By the way, the famed Oktoberfest celebrations in Munich officially begin on Saturday, Sept. 16, at noon, when the mayor of Munich taps the first keg of Oktoberfest. Traditional Oktoberfests are often described as a little more amber in color, richer and slightly stronger than what mainstream fall festival versions have become throughout Germany.
Background: “The Oktoberfest exhibits everything a great traditional style should. It has color, nice maltiness and doesn’t try too hard with the hops,” says Nelson. His Patron Saint started appearing on local shelves in early August.
An Oktoberfest was the first beer that Nelson formulated as a professional brewer, some 30 years ago, after being hired by Capital Brewery in Middleton. Over the years and now at a different brewery, Nelson has tweaked the malt bill somewhat to bring out more caramel notes in the profile. Patron Saint has a lot of traditional Munich and caramel malts. Balance comes from a touch of Liberty hops that lend light herbal spiciness. Liberty hops are a U.S. variety that emerged from German Hallertau hops.
Nelson originally wanted to call his Oktoberfest “Guardian.” However, that name was already taken by California-based Stone Brewery for its barleywine. Nelson liked the image of Oktoberfest being a protector or sentinel of the traditional styles, so he went with Patron Saint.
The beer has been available only in limited quantities over the past couple of years. This fall, Nelson increased production and offered it statewide. Patron Saint finishes at 5.6 percent ABV and an estimated 25 IBUs. Six-packs of 12-ounce bottles sell for around $9.
By the way, Wisconsin Brewing’s best seller, Badger Club, is also a Märzen —
just a milder version of the style.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Light caramel maltiness.
- Appearance: Clear, vivid amber-bronze color. A modest, bubbly, soft, light tan head.
- Texture: Medium-bodied with roundness and softness.
- Taste: Smooth caramel maltiness balanced with a light herbal touch of Liberty hops.
- Finish/Aftertaste: Smooth caramel and bready tones, yet overall a very clean finish.
Glassware: This Oktoberfest is worthy of the traditional German bier stein.
Pairs well with: pork, sausage, barbequed ribs on the grill, or a semi-firm sweet cheese like a Gruyere.
The Verdict: A well-made Oktoberfest like Patron Saint is suited for cooler weather and drinkers start looking for slightly sweeter beers. It’s also a perfect beer for those who enjoy malt with balance. Patron Saint deserves sainthood for its soft caramel and bready flavor. It’s well-balanced and clean. This is an amber lager to celebrate the change of seasons.
