Robin Shepard
The Madison Beverage Makers Group declared February “Blind Date Month” and launched a number of collaborations among its members. Eighteen area beverage makers, from brewers, cider and mead makers, and distillers, put their names in a bucket and drew names. The matches have resulted in nine creations so far. One of those is Bière de Garde Ambrée, from John Russell of The Lone Girl in Waunakee and Jessica jones of Giant Jones Brewing of Madison.
What is it?: Bière de Garde Ambrée is a collaboration between Giant Jones Brewing Company and The Lone Girl Brewing Company. It is among the collaborations released under the “Blind Date” theme of the Madison Beverage Makers Group.
Style: The Bière de Garde is a farmhouse style that originated in the northern regions of France, near the border with Belgium. They are medium bodied, and golden to deep copper color. They are malt-forward beers with low hoppiness and IBUs generally in the 20s. Flavors often feature light toasted and bready notes. They commonly range in alcohol from 4 to 8 percent ABV. Bière de Garde means "beer for keeping," and were historically brewed in early spring for the summer field season.
Background: The Madison Beverage Makers Group is an emerging trade group that wants to put the Madison area on the map as a beverage destination. Currently some 60 different companies are involved. “As a collective group, we can do bigger and more exciting things,” says Jones. “People may come to the isthmus because of its breweries and their tasting rooms, and when we expand that across the city by working together our beverage scene becomes so much more attractive both to local drinkers and as far as attracting people to Madison.”
Bière de Garde Ambrée was among the first beers released in the Blind Date Collaborations earlier in the month. Other releases will be appearing throughout the rest of February. (Information about other releases is at Madison Beverage Makers Group.)
Bière de Garde Ambrée was made in the Giant Jones brewhouse and is certified organic. It’s made with Munich and Pilsner malts that lend light toasty notes. Pacific Gem hops provide some balance. A kviek yeast strain was used; it’s an aggressive quick-fermenting yeast that imparts tropical fruitiness. The beer was brewed in December and cold-conditioned for six weeks before it was packaged.
Bière de Garde Ambrée finishes at 7.7 percent ABV. It sells for $6/glass and $6/bottle. It’s found in both brewery’s tasting rooms, and a handful of local liquor stores are selling 500 mL bottles.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Light bready and toasted maltiness. Fruity hints of pineapple and apricot.
- Appearance: Amber/copper color, with a slight haze. A medium bubbly tan head.
- Texture: Medium-bodied, bubbly, with softness.
- Taste: Soft toasted maltiness. Fruity notes of pineapple, apricot and apple in the background.
- Finish/Aftertaste: Toasted, a light and very subtle hint of toffee flavor. Ends dry with a touch of apricot and lingering pineapple.
Glassware: The stemmed tulip glass is a great way to show off the amber color while its outward flare holds the bubbly tan head.
Pairs well with: slightly sweet stews featuring vegetables (like a ratatouille) or fish (bouillabaisse).
The Verdict: I enjoy finding a good Bière de Garde, in part because the style is rather obscure. One as flavorful and interesting as this one is a special treat. Even though it’s an ale, some think of a Bière de Garde as having French “bock”-like character, especially when made with extended cold-conditioning time and a distinctive clean malt dryness. The Lone Girl and Giant Jones have teamed up for a very inviting take on the style. Its toasty, bready maltiness is upfront, while the beer remains clean and dry. The kviek yeast adds an unexpected fruitiness with hints of pineapple, orange and apple. Those subtle fruity tropical notes from the yeast mingle nicely with the Pacific Gem hops. In the end, the cold-conditioning time brings everything together for an easy drinking, memorable experience.
