Robin Shepard
Leos Frank grew up in Czechoslovakia in what is now the Czech Republic. After moving to the Chippewa River valley about 20 years ago, he discovered it was difficult to find the style of beers of his homeland. He began homebrewing, making European-style beers, and eventually started Lazy Monk Brewing in Eau Claire along with his wife, Theresa. The brewery’s flagship, a pilsner, is a great introduction to Lazy Monk.
What is it? Bohemian Pilsner from Lazy Monk Brewing of Eau Claire.
Style: The Bohemian pilsner, sometimes referred to as a Czech pilsner, originated in the 1840s in city of Plzeň in the western regions of the Czech Republic. The style is light golden to amber and topped with a dense, soft white head. This style of pilsner often has Czech Saaz hops, which lend earthy, herbal and spicy aroma. Most beer enthusiasts consider the Bohemian pilsner as medium-bodied, with more mouthfeel and complex flavors than mainstream American lagers made by the big breweries.
Background: The Bohemian Pilsner has been a flagship brew for Lazy Monk since it started offering beer in 2011. Though Frank says that good pilsners used to be scarce in the States, that’s beginning to change. Along with a resurgence of interest in making lagers, “brewers are getting better at brewing them,” Frank says.
Lazy Monk’s Bohemian pilsner is made with Continental pilsner malt, along with Czech Saaz and German Magnum hops. That adds to the authenticity of Frank’s recipe. The beer finishes at 5% ABV and about 30 IBUS. It’s sold in four-packs of 16-ounce cans for around $10.
Lazy Monk self-distributes, so the Franks make a trip to Madison and Milwaukee every few weeks with their beers, the Bohemian pilsner and a Bohemian dark lager — their two main year-round brands. Seasonals include a biere de garde, a rye IPA and Keller Pivo (an unfiltered Munich lager).
When Lazy Monk opened, the Franks had no plans for a taproom and just wanted to focus on draught beer. However, the Bohemian pilsner put them on the radar of beer fans in Eau Claire, and all that soon changed. Within a year of opening, they started work on a tasting room for pint and growler sales. About a year ago Lazy Monk started offering beers in 16-ounce cans. Now the brewery is about to embark on a major expansion with a move to a new location along the Chippewa River in downtown Eau Claire. The site will include 18,000 square feet for a production brewery, taproom, a deck that overlooks the water and a German beer hall that will seat up to 180 persons. The Franks hope the move will be completed by spring 2016.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: An earthy and herbal hoppy aroma.
Appearance: Yellow-golden color, very effervescent, with a thick white head.
Texture: Light- to medium-bodied and bubbly.
Taste: There’s a soft maltiness in the beginning. However, the Saaz hops stand out with their herbal crisp bitterness.
Finish/Aftertaste: Crisp and lightly dry.
Glassware: The pilsner glass is best for appreciating the beer's color and effervescence. Serve it cold, below 40° F, to bring out the crisp hoppy qualities.
Pairs well with: The Bohemian pilsner is versatile with food, matching well with burgers, veggies and fish as well as moderately spicy dishes.
The Verdict: I really like the Bohemian pilsner, and Lazy Monk’s version strikes all the right notes for me. Leos Frank makes one that’s bright golden and bubbly with a thick white head that gently releases the soft earthy and herbal aromas of the Saaz hops. There’s crisp herbal bitterness to the main flavor profile, which eventually becomes light and dry in the end. It all makes for a clean, nicely balanced, smooth drinking beer that will please those who enjoy European pilsners.
