Robin Shepard
Owners Maureen and Trevor Easton toast their medal-winning gluten-free Copperhead ale.
When a brewery wins a medal at the annual Great American Beer Festival (GABF), it gets noticed nationally, no matter how big or small the brewhouse is, or how widely or narrowly distributed the beer. This past weekend, one of Madison’s smallest breweries captured that attention. Alt Brew won a GABF silver with its Copperhead ale in the growing category of gluten-free beers.
What is it? Copperhead copper ale from Alt Brew of Madison.
Style: A copper ale falls into the category of copper-amber-colored beers that tend to focus on malt, yet with enough hops that there’s balance, with toasted toffee and coffee character, sometimes with a light fruitiness. Copper-amber ales range in strength from 4 percent to 7 percent ABV.
Background: Trevor Easton says he was running errands with his wife (and brewery co-owner) Maureen on Saturday afternoon when a congratulatory text message came to her phone. Trevor had to ask her twice to repeat the message because he said such recognition was beyond his comprehension at the time. “It’s a thrill,” he says.
Gluten-free beers were among 96 styles of beers and some 7,200 entries total judged in this year’s GABF in Denver.
Alt Brew began making gluten-free beers in 2013, and Copperhead is now one of three of this east-side brewery’s standard offerings, along with a handful of specialty and seasonal releases. Gluten-free beers are steadily growing in popularity as consumers look for ways to reduce gluten in their diets. Easton started his brewing out of necessity because Maureen suffers from celiac disease, and she was looking for a way not to give up beer.
Copperhead is made with sorghum, rice and two types of millet that include red and chocolate roasted versions, which give the beer its dark color. It also has a touch of honey. The beer is hopped with Czech Saaz and Mt. Hood hops. “It started [from] a style that we weren’t sure people would really like because IPAs are so hot and everybody follows them,” says Easton. “But it’s developed a fan base.”
Copperhead was introduced for the first time at the Isthmus Beer and Cheese Fest in 2015. “We had done a test batch and brought it to the festival to see how people would respond,” says Easton. By April of that year it was appearing in bomber bottles and has since become the brewery’s number-two best seller behind Farmhouse Ale.
Easton has also been working on a special version of Copperhead made with chicory that is among a group of beers made with adjuncts that I’m excited about watching for this fall.
Copperhead finishes at 5 percent ABV. It sells for around $8 per 22-ounce bottle.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A light roastedness with a hint of toffee.
Appearance: Hazy, amber-copper. A modest, frothy tan head.
Texture: Medium, round with softness.
Taste: Smooth malt-like flavor (main gluten-free grain is millet) with a touch of roasted chocolate and toffee. There’s a light fruitiness that emerges as the beer warms.
Finish/Aftertaste: Balanced and mostly a clean ending, except for a light grainy-earthiness.
Glassware: The Willi Becher, with its inward taper at the top, will focus the light roasted qualities of the grains and show off the beer’s rich amber-copper color.
Pairs well with: Steaks, burgers and barbecue. It’s also great with nutty cheeses like roquefort and well-aged cheddar.
The Verdict: Copperhead has surprising malt-like qualities without the traditional barley malts. There’s a deep amber, albeit dirty copper, color that’s unexpected, given that it’s free of traditional dark roasted barley. Its flavor also has a touch of roasted chocolate and toffee, much like caramel malt. In the end, there’s a light grainy earthiness that lingers, but not for long. This is a beer that breaks down misperceptions about gluten-free beers “not tasting like beer.” It’s a great choice for those who seek foods without gluten, and it’s also a pleasant drinking companion for everyone.
