Robin Shepard
Full Mile Beer Company and Kitchen just celebrated its anniversary a few weeks ago. The Sun Prairie brewpub hit its first-year production target of 600 barrels of beer.
Co-owner C.J. Hall is gratified that the pub has grown a group of regulars who seem like family. On Full Mile’s birthday beer list is a smooth dark lager called Night Society, modeled after the German schwarzbier. Hall says it’s a good beer to sip in front of a roaring fire.
What is it? Night Society from Full Mile Beer Company and Kitchen of Sun Prairie.
Style: Night Society is based on a German-style schwarzbier. These dark lagers are medium-bodied, with firm malty aroma and roasted caramel and chocolate flavors. Overall, they are clean, with mild hop character. Schwarzbiers will commonly range from 3.8-4.9 percent ABV and less than 30 IBUs.
Background: Night Society was among the first beers offered by Full Mile brewer Skyler Kottwitz not long after the brewpub opened in December, 2018 and is based on one of Kottwitz’s homebrew recipes. It’s just made its return to the taproom. At its core is a base of pilsner, along with chocolate malt for color and flavor and touch of German rauch (smoked) malt which gives it a thin layer of smoke. The hops include Wisconsin-grown Sterling, though they are not a big player in the beer’s profile — just enough for a touch of spicy balance against the sweetness of the malts.
Night Society is expected to be on tap at Full Mile through January. It finishes at 6.2 percent ABV and sells in the brewpub for $6/glass and $9/crowler. Full Mile also intends to bring this beer to the Isthmus Beer and Cheese Festival on January 18.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Smooth chocolate maltiness with a light hint of smoke.
- Appearance: Black color with a bubbly brown head.
- Texture: Medium-bodied, soft and smooth. As it warms, it becomes even softer as the malt begin to shine.
- Taste: Chocolate and caramel maltiness. A smooth sweetness throughout. There’s a wonderful light smokiness of bacon in the background.
- Finish: Mild soft roastedness and a light lingering touch of smoke.
Glassware: The Willi Becher or an inward tapered pilsner glass. Either are great choices to enhance the aroma of the chocolate malt along with helping to gently focus the mild smoky accent of the rauch malt.
Pairs well with: grilled vegetables and braised meats. The beer’s smooth, mild sweetness makes it an especially nice companion for brisket, soft buttery cheeses and cashews.
The Verdict: It’s not fair or accurate to think of Night Society as just a schwarzbier. That’s because it’s a little bolder and maltier than what one might expect for that type of dark lager. I enjoy its flavor with the smooth sweetness of chocolate, caramel and coffee notes (from malts — there is no coffee added). It has the flavors of a mild dark bock or even a doublebock. But what really stands out is the gentle use of smoked malt as a background accent (just a nice touch, because a little smoke can go a long way). This is an inviting malty beer with enough sweetness for a winter beer.
