Robin Shepard
The cherry lambic, or kriek, is often considered a pillar of Belgian brewing. Along with gueuze and framboise, it is a mainstay beers in that country. Madison’s Funk Factory Geuzeria takes pride in following the Old World brewing traditions involved in making them, and has just released its own take on the style called Kriekenlaan.
What is it? Kriekenlaan from Funk Factory Geuzeria.
Style: Lambic-style beers are known for their musty, tart, sour, acidic, and earthy flavors. Traditional methods used by Belgian brewers involve wild or natural fermentation with yeast and bacteria thatare part of the area where they are made. The kriek (“cherry” in Flemish) is most commonly considered a fruited lambic (however, other beers like the Flanders Red Ale are sometimes fruited with cherries). The kriek originated in the Senne River valley near Brussels. They should be tart, crisp and bubbly with lots of sharp cherry character. Belgian brewers insist on using local fruits, and believe extended aging of the cherries, including pits, of one-to-two years is necessary for flavor, before it’s bottled and allowed to condition even longer. These beers often fall between 5 and 7 percent ABV.
Background: Kriekenlaan was created by Andrew Holzhauer, Funk Factory’s head of operations. This beer is about as personal as a beer can be. His family owns a cherry orchard near Traverse City, Michigan, and he used its product for this beer. “This was really special to me, getting the cherries off the tree and into the beer the day they were picked,” says Holzhauer. To accomplish that, he enlisted his family, including his 2- and 5-year-old nieces, to help with the hand harvesting. The beer’s name is an homage to his family: the orchard is located on Cherry Avenue, which in Dutch translates to Kriekenlaan.
The beer is made with about 2.4 pounds of a blend of Montmorency, Cavalier and Hudson cherries for every gallon of beer. It was aged on whole cherries for about 10 months before it was bottled and allowed to condition for another five months prior to release.
Kriekenlaan finishes at 6 percent ABV. It’s available from the Geuzeria, 1602 Gilson St., in 750 mL bottles for $28/each, and 375 mL bottles are $18 for drinking in the taproom.
This is the first time Funk Factory has made its own kriek-style beer. In 2015, it collaborated with O’so Brewing of Plover to make Door Kriek with Wisconsin-grown cherries. That beer is likely to return next fall. If you miss Kriekenlaan now, it may be another two years before it’s made again.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Light musty yeastiness initially, with soft floral cherry notes in background.
- Appearance: Slightly hazy, bright reddish amber color. A very bubbly pink head.
- Texture: Light- to medium-bodied, very bubbly. The tart cherry flavor accentuates an overall crisp sharpness.
- Taste: Light funky cellar qualities throughout. The crisp tart cherry blends well with the acidity of the wild fermentation.
- Finish/Aftertaste: Tart cherry.
Glassware: A wine glass or chalice is ideal for appreciating the beer’s effervescence, its fruit aroma and its bright reddish hue.
Pairs well with: sweeter meats like duck and lamb, and such dessert companions as cheesecake, too. All play off the assertive cherry flavor.
The Verdict: A kriek shouldn’t be overly sweet. Rather, the fruit blends with the sourness of the background lambic or gueuze. And that’s just what Funk Factory’s Kriekenlaan does. It’s wonderfully crisp, bubbly and tart, while also allowing a modest amount of earthy funk and acidity. I like the fresh cherry tartness here, compared to cherry beers that infuse juice. The extended aging on actual berries and pits adds to the complexity of the fruity aroma and flavor, lending faint hints of vanilla woodiness and cinnamon spice. I prefer it as a dessert beer following hearty meal. This traditional kriek-style beer is well worth picking up, especially for Belgian lambic fans.
