Oliphant, a nanobrewery in Somerset, Wis., makes its beer in three-barrel batches. Yet recently it’s been able to enter into the Madison market via 32-ounce cans, or “Crowlers.” My pick so far is Gobias, the brewery’s robust black ale made with coffee.
What is it? Gobias from Oliphant Brewing of Somerset.
Style: The base beer for Gobias is a strong black ale made from a combination of dark roasted malts. The brewery doesn’t specify the style of black ale; however, given its full-bodied nature, malty background, and strength (8.5% ABV), it fits pretty well into the imperial porter category.
Background: Oliphant co-owners Trevor Wirtanen and Matt Wallace like to push the boundaries of styles. Gobias black ale is based on Wirtanen’s homebrew recipes. “It’s a big, muddy blend of dark roasted malts and coffee,” says Wirtanen. It’s a relatively new beer for Oliphant, having been available for about eight months. However, given that Oliphant began brewing only a little more than a year ago, in actuality, all its brews are new.
At the heart of this strong black ale is a coarse-ground roast of coffee from River Moon Coffee of River Falls, Wis. Wirtanen adds about three pounds of coffee for every three barrels of beer. The coffee is steeped, cold, in the fermenter for about three days. Wirtanen expects Gobias to remain one of the brewery’s most produced beers and hopes to keep stock on Madison store shelves.
Gobias gets its name from the television show Arrested Development. In the series the two characters, Tobias and Gob, like to use the phrase “go buy us some coffee”; Gobias is a play on that saying and a combination of their two names. The brewery’s name, Oliphant, traces to The Lord of the Rings.
Oliphant’s Crowlers sell for $8.50 or $12, depending upon the style (Gobias is $12). Currently, Riley’s Wines of the World, Trixie’s Liquor and Cannery Wine and Spirits carry several of Oliphant’s Crowlers, and I found Gobias at Riley’s. However, as with many nanos, Oliphant’s beers don’t stay on shelves long, and there’s sometimes a gap between shipments of a specific style. Wirtanen and Wallace self-distribute, making the trip to Madison every two or three weeks. If you like coffee beers, Gobias is definitely well worth watching for. Just last week Gobias turned up at Hop Cat in downtown Madison on a nitrogen tap line for $8 (tulip/glass). The extra softness from the nitrogen accentuates the sweetness of the chocolate malts. It’s really at its best when found on nitrogen.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: The strong coffee aroma is sweet and inviting.
Appearance: Deep black color with a brown bubbly head.
Texture: Full-bodied and soft.
Taste: The coffee aroma leads the taste, and there’s a medium roasted coffee and toffee flavor throughout. A soft chocolate maltiness rounds out the background.
Finish/Aftertaste: Smooth coffee and chocolate maltiness. It ends with some alcoholic warmth.
Glassware: The coffee nose is amplified in a snifter, which also encourages sipping of this bold, strong beer.
Pairs well with: Sharp cheddars and well-aged gouda.
The Verdict: Gobias is a rich, malty beer with lots of coffee aroma. It also has a lot of body, in part from flaked oats in the grist, which bring out even more of its malt and coffee tones. Gobias is better than most coffee beers because of its distinctive aromatics, while at the same time it controls the over-roasted, harsh bitter flavors you might find in a strong cup of coffee. Coffee character in Gobias comes in large part from its huge coffee bean bouquet. I’d love to be in the brewhouse when this beer is at its freshest state.