Robin Shepard
When Greenview Brewing opened its new taproom a couple of weeks ago, the Hollywood Nights Blonde IPA didn’t last long, just a few hours. It’s found a following not just among those looking for gluten-free alternatives, but also among those who like hops. If it weren’t labeled “gluten-free,” you might not realize it is.
What is it? Alt Brew Hollywood Nights from Greenview Brewing of Madison.
Style: The India Pale Ale (IPA) is all about hops. Look for herbal, citrus and piney character in both aroma and flavor. IPAs are also known for bitterness, the degree of which results from the variety of hops and when they are added during brewing. IPAs are medium-bodied and often golden- to copper-colored. They range from 5.5% to 7.5% ABV. Hollywood Nights is labeled “blonde” because of its light golden-copper color.
Background: The Alt Brew brands from Greenview Brewing have been steadily growing in popularity since the brewery started making its gluten-free beers in 2013. There’s a growing group of consumers following gluten-free or reduced-gluten diets who are also searching for beer. Hollywood Nights succeeds because the hops stand out so well in aroma and flavor, while a dose of honey in the brew kettle adds a touch of sweetness.
Hollywood Nights will challenge skeptics of gluten-free brews. “There can be quite a stigma associated with the flavor of gluten-free,” says brewery owner and brewmaster Trevor Easton. This IPA will surprise you. “We’re really not trying to shock people, but it’s great when they don’t have a clue that it’s gluten-free,” says Easton.
Gluten is found in several major cereal grains used to make beer (barley, wheat and rye). After Easton’s wife, Maureen, faced the prospect of giving up beer, Trevor started brewing gluten-free homebrews, which eventually resulted in their starting this brewery.
Hollywood Nights was originally released in summer 2014 for the Great Taste of the Midwest. Easton used feedback from the festival to tweak the recipe. The IPA gets its hoppy personality from Mt. Hood, Centennial, Simcoe and Chinook hops. Much of its aroma is from the Chinooks that are added in dry hopping late in fermentation. Overall, the hop combination is assertive enough to complement the gluten-free sorghum, rice and millet. Those are the grains that replace malt in the brewing process of most common craft beers. The honey that Easton uses comes from Gentle Breeze of Mount Horeb.
Hollywood Nights finishes at 7% ABV and 40 IBUs. It sells for $8 per 22-ounce bottle.
The beer’s name was inspired by Trevor’s sister, Tiffany, who lives in Hollywood. There’s a bright and crisp hoppiness to the beer that he says reminds him of that city’s bright lights of Hollywood.
In early September Easton opened the Alt Brew taproom at 1808 Wright St., near Madison College’s Truax campus. Easton intends to move his brewing equipment from House of Brews to the new location by November. The Alt Brew taproom is currently open from 3:30 to 9 p.m. Fridays and 2 to 9 p.m. on Saturdays. Easton hopes to expand the hours in the future. The taproom doesn’t serve food, but patrons can bring it in or call for delivery.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A crisp piney nose.
Appearance: Light, hazy golden color with a soft white head.
Texture: Medium and bubbly.
Taste: Sharp piney and citrus hoppiness. The honey is in the background; you’ll have to concentrate to find it.
Finish/Aftertaste: Modest pine hoppiness with dryness and lingering warmth from the 7% ABV.
Glassware: Try a Willi Becher, with its inward taper to focus the hops. Serve this beer very cold to bring out the hops. As it warms, you’ll notice more of the honey.
Pairs well with: Hollywood Nights goes nicely with range of standard pub food.
The verdict: This beer really surprised me, attacking my own misconceptions that gluten-free beers are sour and thin. Hollywood Nights has hoppy aroma and flavor thanks to the Chinooks, while Centennials lend some light citrus bitterness. The honey complements all this nicely with sweetness in the background. In the end there’s warmth and pine-dryness.For those looking for a gluten-free beer and in love with hops, Hollywood Nights is a great choice.
