Robin Shepard
The first wave of Oktoberfest seasonal releases started a few weeks ago — and yes, it’s only August. Port Huron Brewing Company brewer and owner Tanner Brethorst says the style is a tradition in Wisconsin and is something breweries can’t afford to miss — “It’s a rite of fall.”
What is it? Oktoberfest from the Port Huron Brewing Company of Wisconsin Dells.
Style: An Oktoberfest is a Märzen lager. They are medium-bodied, golden- to copper-colored, clean and well-balanced, and range from 5 to 6 percent ABV. Style aficionados will distinguish between the festival-style Oktoberfest as lighter colored while a Märzen is slightly darker, with more malt character. The Oktoberfest style of Märzen emerged as a beer to celebrate the wedding of Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen on Oct. 17, 1810. By the way, the famed Oktoberfest celebration in Munich officially begins on September 22 at noon, when the Mayor of Munich taps the first keg of Oktoberfest. Munich’s Oktoberfest runs until October 7.
Background: Port Huron Brewing has been making its Oktoberfest since 2014. There’s a rich Märzen at the core of this beer with lots of Munich, Vienna and Caramel malts fermented with a German lager yeast. Brethorst makes one departure from Bavarian tradition by sourcing Wisconsin-grown Nugget and Mount Hood hops. However, those varieties do have German ancestry. The beer takes nearly two months to make, nearly three to four times longer than some fast-fermenting ales. “You don’t push it. We let the beer tell us when it’s ready,” says Brethorst. “If you follow the rules and let it do its thing you get something special.”
Port Huron’s Oktoberfest ends up on the strong side of the style at 6.5 percent ABV. It sells in six-packs for around $10. Brethorst has made five batches for this fall so it should be available well into October.
Port Huron’s official Oktoberfest party is September 22 at the brewery in Wisconsin Dells. Brethorst will also have a limited draft-only version of this beer that’s been aged in brandy barrels he obtained from the Driftless Glen Distillery of Baraboo. Port Huron’s Oktoberfest party is from noon until 10 p.m., and it also features the polka music of the Jerry Schneider Band from Chilton at 3 p.m.
Oktoberfest fans may also want to make note of Oktobeerfest on Saturday, September 22 from 3 to 7 p.m. at Breese Stevens Field. This year it will feature over 30 breweries along with beer importers, local sellers, distributors and cider makers.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Bready, malty.
- Appearance: Clear deep copper color and a thick soft tan head.
- Texture: Medium-bodied with roundness.
- Taste: Lots of caramel and toffee notes. A light herbal pine hoppiness in the background.
- Finish/Aftertaste: Malty, with a subtle lingering sweetness.
Glassware: Port Huron’s take on the Oktoberfest leans to the traditional Märzen, and for that reason I recommend the Willi Becher, with its slight inward taper near the lip to focus the malty aroma. However, don’t be shy about pouring this beer into a big German stein.
Pairs well with: German entrees like pork and sausage, brats and other tailgate fare, and semi-firm sweet cheeses like a Gruyere.
The Verdict: Port Huron’s take on the Oktoberfest falls squarely on the malty side, or that of the traditional Märzen. For those looking for lighter, more sessionable, fest-style Oktoberfests, this beer may be a little too rich. Port Huron’s take on this seasonal lager is loaded with bready biscuity aroma up front, followed by deep caramel notes with a hint of toffee. There’s lots of flavor and a smooth lingering sweetness in the finish. I really like the character of this beer; however, some Märzen purists may find this a little too big and malty.