Robin Shepard
Saint Patrick’s Day always brings out the best stouts. The most recognizable brew, one that almost defines the holiday, is the dry Irish version made famous by Arthur Guinness. Even though the celebrations for this year are over, there’s still a lot of stout on local shelves and taps. One that stands out is a new beer by House of Brews called Round Tower, named for the medieval structures that dot the countryside of the Emerald Isle.
What is it? Round Tower Irish Stout by House of Brews of Madison.
Style: Guinness, with its deep black color, defines what most think of as a stout. But there’s a range of sub-styles within the stout family, like the English sweet stout, the oatmeal stout, American stout and Russian imperial stout. Guinness and Round Tower fall into the dry Irish version, a style that gains much of its bitter character from the highly roasted barley that goes into the grist. Overall, expect this style to emphasize chocolate and caramel flavor of malts, with a distinctive dry-roasted bitterness in the background and finish. While Irish stouts may look thick, they’re more commonly medium- to light-medium bodied with a range in alcohol from 3.8% to 5% ABV.
Background: Saint Patrick’s Day is over, but this beer was released only about a week before the big day, when stouts are at their most popular. “I’m a little behind on almost all of my seasonal beer this year,” admits House of Brews’ Page Buchanan. The good news is that Round Tower will likely be available well into April.
This is the first time Buchanan has offered an Irish Stout. He does have a couple of other stouts in his lineup, including Kremlin Russian imperial stout and Snug oatmeal stout.
Round Tower is made with pale malt, roasted barley and Black Patent malt. It’s hopped with a light amount of Nuggets. “I’m a malt guy, and if I can find an excuse to brew a malty beer that I think will sell, I’ll do that,” says Buchanan.
Round Tower finishes around 6% ABV. It’s currently found on draught at the brewery for $4.50/glass. It’s available in 22- ounce bomber bottles for around $7.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Light roasted chocolate maltiness.
Appearance: Black color with bronze tints. A thick tan-brown head.
Texture: Full-bodied, soft and bubbly.
Taste: Lots of chocolate maltiness up front. A roasted bitterness in the background.
Finish/Aftertaste: Roasted maltiness, with a slight herbalness from the Nugget hops.
Glassware: This Irish Stout deserves a tulip pint (think Guinness glass).
Pairs well with: The beer’s roasted bitterness complements grilled meats, slow-cooked stews and medium-sharp cheddar cheeses.
The Verdict: This is great Irish stout. I like how it showcases the roasted barley and Black Patent malt. Together they lend chocolate and caramel maltiness with a background of dry roasted, almost toffee-like bitterness. There is a touch of the herbal and resiny Nugget hops that shows up in the finish, too. Buchanan’s passion for malts means that his version is a bit bolder than Guinness. But he nails the aroma and flavor; this one’s about roasted barley, the way an Irish stout should be.
