Robin Shepard
The year-old Sunshine Brewing Company of Lake Mills has a niche: Belgian beer styles. Its bold, assertive takes on Belgians often top 8 percent ABV. What’s been missing in this young brewery’s lineup is something lighter and lower in alcohol. That’s now changing with the introduction of a sessionable beer called Enkel.
What is it? Enkel from Sunshine Brewing Company of Lake Mills.
Style: The enkel is an ale, sometimes called a Belgian single or Patersbier (“Father’s Beer” in Dutch). Belgian monks refer to it as a table beer because it’s light, clean and very quaffable. Most often they are golden to amber though they can be darker. While they have malt character they remain well-balanced, low in carbonation and in alcohol (less than 5 percent ABV). Trappist-style enkels have traditionally been considered what monks enjoy for themselves. Historically, these beers were made by additional sparging of the grains, after the heavier wort had been collected for stronger beers.
Background: Sunshine Brewing’s initial beers were all big and high in alcohol. This enkel attempts to fill the void with something a little tamer. “We have a lot of people who come into our tasting room and want the lightest beer we have,” says owner and brewer Lane Smith. “Some drinkers are under the impression that all Belgian beers are heavy and strong. This enkel really opens their eyes.”
Smith makes his enkel with a high percentage of pilsner malt in the overall grist which lends light breadiness to the aroma and flavor. Belgian candi sugar is used to bump up the strength just a bit, but the beer stays within a modest 6.3 percent ABV. Hops include Willamette for a light herbal aroma, and a touch of Nugget for bitterness and balance. It’s fermented with a Belgian yeast that creates floral and fruity notes in the background.
Smith recently purchased a small canning line, and this beer will be among the first to appear in 12-ounce cans and six-packs. For that packaging, he intends to lower the ABV by about one percentage point by adjusting the malt bill.
Sunshine’s enkel sells in the Lake Mills tasting room for $6/glass and $14/crowler.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Light floral notes and a subtle sweetness.
- Appearance: Clear, golden color. A medium bubbly white head.
- Texture: Medium-bodied with softness.
- Taste: The breadiness of pilsner malt. Slightly sweet, but the flavor remains balanced.
- Finish/Aftertaste: The subtle bready sweetness continues. Overall it finishes clean.
Glassware: The short-stem Belgian tulip glass or a goblet will show off this beer’s bright color while allowing the floral aroma to expand under the nose.
Pairs well with: light sandwiches, fried fish and lightly seasoned grilled beef. Assertively spiced entrees could overwhelm its clean, balanced character.
The Verdict: This enkel is similar to a pilsner in flavor, with a clean hint of bready-maltiness. There are notes of the Belgian yeast in the background that give it a light, refreshing fruitiness. This is a clean, flavorful, well-balanced beer well-suited for summer drinking.
