Robin Shepard
John Russell and Kevin Abercrombie.
Brewmaster John Russell and co-owner Kevin Abercrombie in the Madison taproom.
Waunakee’s The Lone Girl Brewing Company made a big move when it opened a taproom at 1817 East Washington Ave. in The Marling building last July. While previous tenant O’so Brewing of Plover failed to thrive at the site, The Lone Girl has found a niche on the city’s beer-savvy east side.
There’s no on-site brewing at the location, but there’s an amazing list of Lone Girl beers brewed in Waunakee. The Madison taproom has 22 taps, while the Waunakee brewpub has just 14 (which is still a lot). Core year-round beers are found at both locations, but the number of taps in Madison allows brewmaster John Russell to offer a greater variety, with more aged beers from his cellar and an occasional experimental brew.
Taproom start-ups like The Lone Girl’s are one of the areas of growth in the craft beer industry today. The most recent tracking by the Brewers Association shows the numbers across the country are increasing while overall craft beer sales have been slightly declining.
The Madison taproom contributed to a 10% growth in the brewery’s production last year, with much of that coming from strong canned beer sales and the take-out beer cooler in the taproom. Lone Girl Brewing now packages at least 10 different styles. The taproom also serves Roman-style flatbread pizzas, made in-house and baked at the East Washington site, with standard toppings like sausage or pepperoni, and some more inventive combos like blue cheese and pear. Pizza rolls and cheese stix are also available but that’s it for snacks — the Waunakee brewpub has a greater emphasis on food and a wide-ranging menu — but owner Kevin Abercrombie jokes that beer and pizza do go hand-in-hand.
Recently, Russell introduced Lone Girl Lite, a 4% ABV golden ale that should appeal to those looking for low alcohol with crisp clean flavor. The recipe has a touch of flaked corn and flaked barley for subtle soft sweetness while reducing body and strength. It replaces the brewery’s long standing Speakeasy cream ale. The Lone Girl also is releasing its first non-alcohol beer, PilsNA. The beer features Saaz hops known for spicy and floral qualities. A perennial favorite, Yes Please, a light-bodied pale ale at 4.5%, will return to both locations. In the months ahead, watch for a flavored THC seltzer that Russell has been working on.
The small, cozy bar is conversation-friendly, with just enough TVs for patrons to keep tabs on critical games. Happy hour is popular, thanks to traffic from nearby apartments, and the space can feel crowded when the nearby Inner Fire Yoga classes let out. The taproom is also convenient to the bike and walking paths along the Yahara River. Come summer, Abercrombie plans to add more outside seating and install a glass garage door that will open up the bar to the sidewalk.
