Todd Hubler
In the past several weeks, a number of out-of-state brewers have set their sights on southern Wisconsin. California-based Stone Brewing announced it was returning to Wisconsin this month after nearly a five-year absence. Stone is well-known for its hoppy IPAs, along with bold porters, assertive stouts and special releases.
Short’s Brewing Company of Michigan has also stepped into Wisconsin with a summer launch of its beers. Like Stone, Short’s has an eclectic portfolio with dozens of different brews. Among its core brands are Huma Lupa Licious, Bellaire Brown, Local’s light lager and Space Rock American pale ale.
Iowa’s Toppling Goliath recently entered into an agreement with Wisconsin Brewing Company of Verona to make its Dorothy’s New World Lager. “We felt the best way to expand our distribution into Wisconsin was to brew in Wisconsin,” says Toppling Goliath owner Clark Lewey.
There’s always out-of-state interest in Wisconsin as a beer market. But it’s not easy to gain a foothold here. While the demand for craft beer in the state is strong, the market is very competitive.
So seeing three breweries make a simultaneous foray into the state really gets folks talking, says Mark Garthwaite, executive director of the Wisconsin Brewers Guild. None of these breweries or their portfolios are entirely new to the state. They’ve been testing the waters, flirting with Wisconsin drinkers through attendance at festivals and limited tap events for years as they look for a thirsty audience.
“Wisconsinites tend to like their own beer,” says Garthwaite. Moreover, “the farther you get from your brewery, the more it takes in investment, time and marketing.”
These latest breweries to venture into Wisconsin are sought out by drinkers looking for beers with assertive flavors, strength and overall distinctive character. Toppling Goliath in particular enjoys something like cult status among the hoppy beer crowd for its Pseudosue (American pale ale), Golden Nugget (IPA) and its hop patrol series that includes ZeeLander (IPA) and King Sue (IIPA). And Stone Brewing’s signature American strong ale, Bourbon Barrel-Aged Arrogant Bastard, is a beer most drinkers will remember for its concerted assault on the taste buds.
