Christine Driscoll
The Pandan Painchiller, right, and Passion Fruit martini from Lucille.
The Pandan Painchiller, right, tastes like summer. The Passion Fruit martini is a worthy alternative.
Most non-alcoholic cocktails are quite literal. They use the same ingredients as the alcoholic version, just without the liquor. Where’s the NA cocktail that stands on its own? The Pandan Painchiller, served in a pineapple-shaped glass at Lucille, 101 King St., is a contender.
While the classic Painkiller relies on rum, what makes the Pandan Painchiller distinct is pandan, a Southeast Asian plant with spiky leaves often used in cooking. Many compare the flavor to vanilla or hazelnut. Pandan is also what gives this drink its distinctive pastel green color.
Kait Ortmann, bar manager, says the pandan cuts the sweetness. The pineapple, coconut cream and lime juice that make up this cocktail could easily turn it into a pina colada. But this tastes like summer. Maybe it’s the green getting to me, but it also tasted…healthy? I’m not alone with my love for the drink. Ortmann told me it’s the most popular NA cocktail Lucille makes.
As the bartender blended my first Painchiller, a couple at the bar asked, “What is that? That looks fun!” A rare compliment for a cocktail with no booze. It looks fun, it tastes fun. A purple flower sits snug at the top with a pineapple leaf alongside a dehydrated pineapple slice that you can enjoy as well.
Pandan has been cultivated for culinary uses for thousands of years. It’s often used in Southeast Asian desserts (there’s a pandan roll at Yummee Treats, 5510 University Ave., a filled doughnut at The Brioche Box, 2303 Pinehurst Ave., Middleton, or a pandan latte at Leopold’s.)
Lucille offers five NA cocktails. You can skip the Pink Dove, which is essentially seltzer with a grapefruit slice (not all NA cocktails stand out). If you like the taste of classic Juicy Fruit gum, the Passion Fruit Martini is for you. It’s served in a conventional martini glass with a slice of lime. If the Pandan Painchiller is not for you, join me in the Passion Fruit Martini Fan club.
The price range for NA cocktails at Lucille is $10-$12.
