Liam Beran
Gobi lasooni at Amber Indian Cuisine.
Among all the splashes of flavor, spices and color at the Madison area's numerous delicious Indian restaurants, I find myself continually drawn to one unassuming, mostly orange dish: gobi manchurian.
The basic principle: cauliflower florets are dipped in batter, fried, and coated in a tangy, garlicky sauce. Gobi manchurian is a popular Indo-Chinese street food and, in the United States and Britain, a staple appetizer at Indian restaurants.
Of the half-dozen gobi manchurians my friend and I have tried in Dane County, the gobi lasooni at Amber Indian Cuisine, 6913 University Ave., in Middleton, is our winner. Gobi lasooni is similar to manchurian, but without soy sauce. The portion, a plate of around a dozen large cauliflower florets, is generous, even for two diners, and at $9, less expensive than at many other spots. The first bite consistently passes a critical test: the breading is crispy, even with that vital sauce covering it, and the interior floret maintains its structure. It’s a quickly addicting proposition — it’s easy to binge a few before you notice how many you’ve eaten.
Amber’s sauce is potent — not so garlicky as to completely mask the flavor of cauliflower, but strong enough to pack a punch. The dish can be ordered at any spice level: I go with mild, but those seeking Scovilles should, at minimum, go for the medium or beyond.
And word to the wise — bring a friend. While it’s possible to load up on appetizers, Amber also has delicious entrees, and it’s worth splitting your bounty of fried cauliflower to enjoy some.
