
Mark Clear
Anyone can make a sandwich, and as kids most of us learn the joy of turning peanut butter, jelly and bread into something more than the sum of its parts. So what differentiates the sandwiches of Casetta Kitchen and Counter, the best in Wisconsin, according to a recent Yelp ranking? One factor is clearly the bread. Casetta’s signature focaccia is the star of the show, and for good reason. It’s taken humans more than 2,000 years to get focaccia just right, and the Etruscans of what’s now northern Italy would likely be bewildered that it happened in Madison, Wisconsin.
The ideal focaccia is a study in compromise. It must be light and airy yet chewy, crispy on top without being crusty, savory but with just the right amount of sweetness, and infused with olive oil while also being ready to absorb still more olive oil. It’s not for us to contemplate just how Casetta has achieved this impossible nirvana, but rather, just to revel in it.
Casetta bakes fresh focaccia every weekday in traditional and specialty flavors that rotate daily. You can get it on a sandwich, of course, or take home a chunk big enough for two to three sandwiches of your own for $5. Get there early for the flavor of the day; it often sells out. You can also get your sandwich on a selection of other fresh breads, but seriously, why would you?