Amy Stocklein
The strawberry-rhubarb crepes are a sweet sensation.
Cafe Zoma, the long-running coffee shop on Atwood Avenue, changed hands over the summer. Brothers Conner and Kristian Di Persio bought it, switched the name to Cafe Brittoli and rolled out an expanded, Italian-inspired menu featuring breakfast sandwiches, crepes, soups and pastries.
The place is not without its charms. Rotating displays of artwork are a nice touch, as are the exposed ventilation pipes and vintage-looking hanging light bulbs. Sunlight shines through the all-glass back entrance, which leads to a lovely outdoor patio, and also provides a view of passersby on the Capital City Trail. LEGOS and other toys and games are available; kid-friendliness is another selling point.
That said, I always want an establishment to put its best foot forward, and it feels like Cafe Brittoli could put more effort into its presentation. The cafe has a messy, unfinished vibe, like they’re still in the middle of moving in. During three separate visits, there were dust bunnies on the ceiling fan and dishes piled in a sink in plain view of the dining area. Twice, I had to brush crumbs off my table when I sat down, and the often-wobbly tables threatened to test my dedication to the three-second rule. A few coats of fresh paint would go a long way toward sprucing up the somewhat dingy counter and preparation area, which is itself a turnoff.
The cafe is clearly a work in progress. Between two visits about a week and a half apart, the dining area was rearranged and the menu was downsized significantly, eliminating a variety of previously offered cold sandwiches and paninis, including a grilled cheese I was stoked on. Cafe Brittoli is the sort of place where you can make special requests, though — smoothies no longer appear on the menu, but I was still able to order one — so grilled cheese isn’t off the table. You just have to ask.
In addition to all of the espresso drinks and teas you’d expect at a coffee shop, Cafe Brittoli offers three varieties of sweet crepes: blueberry, banana Nutella and strawberry rhubarb. Go with the strawberry rhubarb. It’s tangy, not oversweet, and doesn’t leave you feeling heavy. More substantial are the savory crepes: house (asparagus, spinach, mushroom, chèvre and balsamic glaze) and smoked salmon (scallions, creme fraiche, pickled radish and arugula). But the main attraction is the selection of breakfast sandwiches.
I’ve eaten too many tasteless, rubbery egg patties not to be jaded about breakfast sandwiches in general, but Cafe Brittoli’s bacon, egg and pepper jack cheese sandwich isn’t like that at all (and neither is the egg and sausage). The triangular eggs are fitted to the shape of the drop-dead delicious house-made focaccia, offering a pleasing symmetry that suggests careful preparation. The bread has a wonderful texture, with a crispy exterior and a soft, buttery inside, and the bacon isn’t that waxy, almost see-through stuff that adorns inferior breakfast sandwiches. All of the ingredients taste real. And, yeah, that might seem like a silly thing to celebrate, but it’s not nearly common enough.
As for the beverages, the (unlisted) smoothies stand out the most. Both the mango and blueberry varieties are top-notch. Most importantly, they are made with fruit, and therefore taste superior to the syrup-and-mostly-ice smoothies served at many cafes. The espresso drinks are simple — don’t expect a flowery pattern in your latte foam — but solid. Same goes for the pastries, which aren’t like the mini works of art that line the case of La Brioche on the west side, but are quite tasty. I recommend the cherry-pistachio pinwheel.
Despite the shortcomings of the space itself, everything on Cafe Brittoli’s menu is good. In some cases exceptionally so, even though the intended Italian focus never really materialized. If you’re in the area to, say, check out Olbrich Botanical Gardens, or you live in the neighborhood, it’s worth dropping by this affordable and unpretentious place for breakfast or lunch. You might have to wipe your own table, though.
Cafe Brittoli
2336 Atwood Ave.; 608-243-1300; cafebrittoli.com;
7 am-6 pm daily; $6-$9
