Ryan Wisniewski
Avocado-tastic guacamole is made right at the table for top freshness. Add what you like, skip what you don’t.
At this point, it’s hard to know what to say about all the Mexican restaurants saturating the Madison food scene. If Mexican isn’t literally poised to outnumber burger and fry joints, it sometimes seems that way. But those of us who love Mexican food just see more of it as a good thing, and Compadres is another great Mexican spot to add to your to-eat-at list.
Open since June, Compadres is in a quiet corner of downtown Middleton, in the same development that houses Takara 88. Compadres (Spanish for “friends”) lives up to its name with amicable service. It’s truly a family affair, run by Manuel González and his family. There was a decent crowd every time I ate there, bigger on weekends.
The first benchmark of every Mexican restaurant is the salsa, and Compadres hits the mark. It arrives at the table promptly along with the gratis chips, which were light and crispy. I was pleased that they always brought both a mild and a hot salsa, because often you have to ask for the hot stuff.
I’m happy to report that Middleton also has a guacamole cart that goes table to table. (In downtown Madison, Blue Agave is doing the same thing.) If you’ve never experienced tableside guacamole, you must. There’s nothing like a guacamolier, rolling a cart stocked with avocados, limes, tomatoes, garlic, cilantro, onions and jalapeños to create the freshest of fresh guacamole, made to order. Don’t want garlic? No problem.
This is a must-order appetizer, but so is the queso fundido. A simple dip of a blend of Mexican cheeses and chorizo, it’s certainly sharable. Or not.
Compadres’ menu is grouped in familiar categories of quesadillas, chimichangas, nachos, salads, tamales, enchiladas, fajitas and burritos. Smaller items fall under the heading “traditional plates” (gorditas, tostadas, huaraches, tortas, tacos, sopes). But there are also a large number of dinner plates grouped under the headings seafood, “signature dishes” and “Mexican traditional.” One way or another, the menu covers all the bases.
Some of the taco spots that have opened in Madison over the last year have a long list of fusion fillings and a greater than average number of vegetarian fillings; Compadres sticks to the more traditional steak, chorizo, steak and chorizo, chicken, pastor and carnitas. Ground beef, potato and chorizo, and chicharron are also listed as fillings for some of these Mexican classics — gorditas, sopes, nachos and the like. They’re all good, with the exception of the chicharron, which is called “pork belly” on the menu but is more accurately a mix of pork skin and belly, mostly skin. In the end, it lacked the rich flavor of pork belly, and the gelatinous texture was unappealing. Vegetarians have the option of a vegetable filling with grilled cauliflower, broccoli, zucchini and carrots. Beans here are also vegetarian; no lard.
Shrimp ceviche came simply presented, with small shrimp, diced tomatoes, red onion, jalapeños, cilantro and avocado slices, all marinated in lime juice. The very bright flavor won me over, despite the fact I’m not usually a shrimp fan.
Enchiladas are one of my favorite dishes; the mole version at Compadres features moist, shredded chicken, an abundance of cheese, and a rich, chocolatey mole sauce with a slow burn. The dinner comes with refried beans, sour cream, shredded lettuce, guacamole, pico de gallo and a surprisingly moist and flavorful rice. Enchiladas also come verde, Suizas and “Compadres” (a special shrimp and crab version).
The burrito Mexicano was hearty, packed with a choice of steak, chicken or ground beef, plus refried beans, the cheese dip, rice and pico de gallo. The burrito was plated with more sauces topping it, replicating in order the colors of the Mexican flag: green guacamole, white queso, and a splash of red tomato sauce.
Among the traditional dinners, the molcajete makes for a beautiful presentation, served in a fancy stone bowl that is its namesake. There’s a little bit of everything: grilled steak, shrimp, chicken and cactus — an ingredient that deserves more menu time. It’s accompanied by warmed tortillas and all the other standard sides for a do-it-yourself feast.
Compadres offers some homemade desserts, including flan and fried ice cream. Perhaps not too shockingly, every time I visited I ended the meal too full to even think about dessert.
I am overjoyed to see a family-run and family-friendly restaurant thriving in the heart of downtown Middleton. I think it will stay a good fit with downtown Middleton — even as the city continues to grow and transform.
Compadres Mexican Restaurant
1900 Cayuga Street, Middleton; 608-203-8332;
compadresmexicanrestaurantwi.business.site;
11 am-10 pm daily; $2-$15; one $38 dinner for two
