Amy Stocklein
All fillings are worth trying, but the pastor is particularly good.
When Jessica Torrez and her husband, Juan Garcia, took over Sol Azteca Mexican Grill last year, the first-time restaurateurs thought it would be a simple turnkey operation. But the terms of the previous owner’s liquor license didn’t transfer to their new business, La Escondida Mexican Grill. Prohibited from serving after 10 p.m., Torres says the limited hours have hurt business. In May, the restaurant was vandalized and burglarized, adding expensive repairs to the family’s struggles.
“It’s been hard,” Torres says in Spanish. “Some days we make only $20.”
The little taqueria at 1821 S. Park St., however, is something of a hidden gem (the restaurant’s name even translates to “the hidden one”). It’s easy to miss, between a laundromat and La Movida radio station, but it’s worth seeking out — for its authentic Mexican fare, warm and friendly service and insanely affordable prices.
The menu focuses on tacos, and all eight varieties are worth trying. The pastor (roasted marinated pork) is particularly good — nicely spiced and not at all greasy. The steak that comes in the asada, alambre and cecina tacos is equally flavorful. All three are technically different preparations (asada is grilled, alambre comes with bacon, cecina is finely chopped), but here they taste pretty similar.
The lengua (beef tongue) is tender. Spicy chorizo comes with or without potatoes. And veggie tacos come with a spiced mix of cauliflower, carrots and onions. The latter was the least successful creation, but it’s not really fair to compare vegetables with time-honored Mexican meat preparations. Fillings are extremely generous, served on warm, doubled-up corn tortillas and topped with plenty of diced onions, cilantro and limes. And they’re only $2 each!
Elotes, the classic Mexican street food, are another specialty here. Freshly roasted sweet corn comes topped with mayonnaise (the Mexican kind, which for reasons I can’t explain is far superior to American brands) and topped with finely crumbled cotija cheese. It’s the ultimate comfort food. Get it en caja (in a box, an enormous portion) or en palo (on the cob, served on a stick).
Burritos are also available made with any of the taco fillings. A large flour tortilla encases a dense mix of meat, beans and cheese. A fiery red salsa comes on the side. It’s a no-frills kind of dish, but it’s tasty and big enough to share. Quesadillas are pretty much the same thing in a slightly different package, with the tortilla grilled to a perfect crisp.
It’s not on the menu, but don’t leave without ordering a mangonada, either as a drink or as dessert. Fresh mango is blended with ice to achieve a sorbet-like consistency, which is then topped with bright red chamoy — a sauce made from pickled fruit and chile powder. The combination of flavors — sweet, sour, spicy — is delicious. A tamarind straw makes it extra fun.
More recommendations from the beverage department: homemade horchata (creamy rice milk that here tastes like Red Hot candies) and champurrado (traditional hot chocolate thickened with corn flour and spiced with cinnamon). There’s also a full bar, now, and I can vouch for the margaritas and the micheladas.
For snacks, La Escondida also does papas fritas, chicharrones and duros (those crunchy wheel-shaped chips). Also listed on the menu are Takis and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos, which are available with or without cheese. I deeply regret not ordering this. I’d also go back for menudo, a traditional soup made with beef stomach, chili broth, hominy and lime. It’s served only on Saturdays and Sundays.
Service can be somewhat inconsistent, but you get the sense that they’re doing their best. Torres and Garcia share duties cooking, waiting tables and tending bar. Their five children also help out. Torres, who previously worked as a certified nursing assistant, says she didn’t know much about cooking before opening the restaurant. A SafeServ class helped, but she recalls struggling to make Mexican rice. After repeated attempts, she prayed to God for a miracle, she says. “Then it finally came out right.”
They’ve mastered tacos and elotes, but these days they’re praying for more business. So if you’re looking for a new spot to try Mexican food, head down to La Escondida.
La Escondida Mexican Grill
1821 S. Park St., 608-228-1987
facebook.com/LaEscondidaMexicanGrillLLC
11 am-9 pm Tues.-Thurs., 11 am-10 pm Fri.-Sun.; $2-$6
