Linda Falkenstein
On Wednesdays, Quivey’s crisp batter and cheesy potatoes put it on top.
Wisconsin’s devotion to the Friday fish fry is one of those much ballyhooed traditions that you think must be exaggerated — and yet it’s true. People really do go out in droves and wait for hours for a table while downing brandy old fashioneds. Friday is not complete without this sacrament.
There are fish fry fans, however (and that would include me) who don’t enjoy the wait. At some point in state fish fry history, some restaurants let their Friday fish fries spill over into the Wednesday specials menu. I recognize that the celebratory TGIF nature is missing on Wednesday. But if you’re looking to try some of the area’s legendary fish fries without so much effort, consider Wednesday. Or maybe two fish fries a week is how you roll — that’s mighty Wisconsin of you.
Quivey’s Grove comes in with a strong Wednesday cod fry (two-piece lunch special $14, dinner $18). Quivey’s featured tents and tables outside to accommodate its Friday crowds well before the pandemic made summer tent dining a common sight; Wednesdays at the Stable Grill are less hectic. A classic beer batter (crisp, rich, pleasantly a little greasy) brings out the best of the mild cod. Slaw is crunchy, with a somewhat milky mayo-and-celery-seed dressing. The slaw needs something (even a little salt helped) but it’s definitely acceptable. Tartar sauce is tart (my preference) rather than sweet, but low on dill pickle, though there are flecks. Parmesan potatoes here are a house specialty; they’re cheesy hash browns that come in a casserole-like square and are best if you let them cool down a bit to let the cheese come through. (French fries are also available.) The accompanying slice of bread is good, cut from a loaf of real bread. The menu lists this as sourdough, but it tastes like white. In a perfect world I would prefer something other than cod, and wish the slaw had something more going on, but with these small caveats, I will say that Quivey’s hits all the right notes, including its cozy dining room in the pioneer-era stable.
Across town, I can make a strong case for the Wednesday fry at the east side’s Dexter’s Pub. Recently the pub offered a mid-week choice of cod or walleye. The walleye has a light breading likely with some cornmeal in it. The hearty walleye really tastes like walleye; there is some skin left, which provides an extra burst of flavor and reminds the diner this is an actual filet. The batter on the cod is also lightly applied. French fries are excellent, hefty and seasoned; there are also waffle fries and chips. Dexter’s wins my tart tartar sauce sweepstakes with its version dotted with lots of dill pickle. The slaw is very oniony. I’m not a fan of onion in coleslaw, ever, but if you are, this is your slaw. The half-slice of caraway rye is a classic Wisconsin fish fry move. However, both the cod and the walleye were a wee bit overfried on my last visit.
Kavanaugh’s Esquire Club, which has been doing Friday fish fries since approximately forever, has a choice of perch ($14.50) or cod ($16) on Wednesdays. Pick either, because to me they taste the same — and neither tastes much like either perch or cod. The only difference is that the perch is perch-shaped. Both were dense, almost whitefish-like in texture. That said, I didn’t mind the flavor or the light, crumby breading, though it could use seasoning. Fries are crinkle cut; coleslaw is classic creamy sweet, as is the tartar sauce. The bread is a very soft loaf that tastes like white bread with caraway seeds.
Jordan’s Big 10 Pub has a devoted following for its Friday fish as well as its Wednesday perch ($15) or bluegill ($16). I can only speak for the perch, which arrives in two huge filets. Unfortunately, these were overfried and the batter could use seasoning. Slaw is somewhere between a vinegar- and a mayo-based, with a slight horseradish kick; tartar sauce is classic Wisconsin sweet. My server recommended the wedge fries and they were crisp on the outside, with fluffy potato within: my favorite part of the meal.
The Oakcrest Tavern is a charming, iconic small town tap somehow stranded in the midst of Madison’s west side. The dining area is limited, but there are seats at the bar, and contactless takeout is available (grab your bag from the entryway). The cod ($12) and perch ($14) arrive ridiculously hot from the frier, but both could use more flavor — from the fish and the batter. Fries are crinkle-cut; coleslaw is sweet mayo-based; the tartar sauce is middle of the road, neither sweet nor tart.
The Oakcrest now offers its fish fry on Thursdays, too. Could that be the next trend? Other restaurants have merely capitulated to the inevitable and serve their fish fry daily. But that’s a topic for another day.
All the restaurants mentioned serve both lunch and dinner on Wednesdays with the exception of Dexter’s, which currently opens at 3 p.m.
