Crimson Sun Studios
The Equador roll is packed full of yellowtail and tuna.
Change seems to be a constant for Shinji Muramoto’s restaurant mini-empire. In recent years, he’s tried out a number of concepts downtown — cool but short-lived endeavors like the Japanese small plates restaurant Kushi Bar and Asian-American barbecue joint the Haze, as well as the perpetually under-appreciated (and now closed) new-American bistro 43 North — and has expanded upon the success of his flagship Restaurant Muramoto to a successful Muramoto Hilldale location on the near-west side.
In early February, his King Street stomping grounds underwent another change, with Restaurant Muramoto closing down at 225 King St. and moving into the former 43 North space — which is actually the original Sushi Muramoto location — at 108 King St. Oh, and around the same time, Morris Ramen, another Muramoto-backed project, opened at 106 King St. How does he do it?
I made my first visit to Muramoto Downtown a few weeks ago and was immediately impressed by the subtle transformation of the space. White linen tablecloths were replaced with stylish wood and minimalist decorations, and the front room had been converted into an inviting, semi-private space for a large group. I prefer the new location to the former Restaurant Muramoto, whose sprawling dining room and oddly placed bar always felt a little disjointed.
Lunch, served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., is a great time to visit, as prices are reasonable and service is prompt. Always a fan of trying special rolls, I sampled first the Tarantula, an inside-out (rice on the outside) roll with soft-shell crab, rock crab, avocado and cucumber. It’s essentially a deluxe version of a spider roll, and it’s done exceptionally well — the crab is crispy, substantial and fresh-tasting, and the masago mayo and spicy sauce (like a sweeter sriracha) add a pop of flavor.
At the recommendation of a server, my companion tried the duck roll, which had thin slices of seared meat draped over rice, with mango and avocado in the middle and a drizzle of sweet eel sauce. It was tasty and unusual (and a fantastic option if you’re dining with someone who refuses to eat raw fish), but I could have done with a bit more duck, especially considering the $16 price.
On a return visit, I tried the Muramoto roll, assuming it must be the flagship creation. It was a visual treat, wrapped in delicate yellow egg paper and topped with big, shiny pearls of salmon roe, but the flavors of tuna, sweet shrimp and squid somehow got lost amid the shiso (a minty herb) and the mayo. Better was the Ecuador roll, packed full of tuna and yellowtail with jalapeno, scallion and spicy sauce to add some excitement.
I also tried my go-to favorite, a negi toro (fatty tuna). The flavor was fine but the roll was woefully scant on the title ingredient. Maybe they were running low on the day of my visit? But I barely scratched the surface of the nigiri, sashimi and the more basic rolls — next time I’ll let the chef choose what’s best.
Beyond sushi, there’s an “Edibles” section of the menu that has some inventive salads and small (and not-so-small) plates. I loved the roasted beet salad, which came with broccoli and disks of thinly shaved beauty heart radish, all topped with yuzu-miso vinaigrette and a drizzle of that delicious masago mayonnaise. Scallops came perfectly seared atop a cauliflower and burdock root puree, which was tasty, but the whole thing was almost oppressively rich and creamy.
A fried chicken leg had the most amazing aroma of curry and was perfectly crisp on the outside and moist on the inside, but it smelled better than it tasted. A lamb curry, though hearty and filling, was unremarkable and served with white rice. More exciting and refreshing was a poke bowl, which features a different preparation daily. I ended up with big chunks of delicious tuna, seaweed and more of that minty-spicy shiso, which was a perfect complement to this dish.
And don’t forget dessert — Muramoto is serving housemade custards in little Mason jars. I tried a ginger flan with salted caramel, the perfect thing to end a meal. Downtown Muramoto is still working out the kinks and needs to refine the menu, but this newest iteration is promising — and promises many happy returns.
Muramoto Downtown
108 King St., 608-255-4343, downtown.muramoto.biz,
11 am-3 pm and 5 pm-10 pm Mon.-Fri.; 5 pm-10 pm Sat., $4-$25
