Candice Wagener
We are not going to say anything about the name of the restaurant. Really.
While there will likely always be disagreement over how to pronounce the ubiquitous Vietnamese noodle soup pho (I’m a “fuh” gal, myself), it continues to gain popularity in Madison. The dish has gone from being one option on the menu at Vietnamese restaurants to being the headliner at a handful of pho places around town. Pho King Good Madison recently opened in the Gateway Mall in the space that formerly was home to Wah Kee.
Pho is a Vietnamese street food that’s been around a lot longer than any of us. It’s a simple food, made with broth, rice noodles and a meat. It comes with a side platter of jalapeños, bean sprouts, lime and basil, so diners can flavor their soup as they see fit.
Pho King Good has other options — fried rice, stir fries, and Hibachi-style dishes. But the name implies that pho holds court. It’s why you’re here in the first place.
There are two main sections to the menu, one called “noodle soups” and another called “rice noodle/udon,” but I had a hard time distinguishing between these two. Both deliver what I would consider pho. There is a choice between thinner rice noodles, wider egg noodles, and thick wheat udon noodles.
My favorite was the roasted duck noodle pho. I am drawn to duck whenever I see it on a menu; it tends to be a rarity. The duck meat is tender here and adds a nice richness to the broth, which is fragrant with garlic and ginger and contains serious meaty undertones. The duck is served still on the bone, so slap a napkin into your shirt, eat with your hands, and gnaw on the bones like our primitive ancestors. I opted for the udon in this dish and was very pleased with how robust they were.
The signature Pho King Deluxe is a loaded bowl that will leave you satisfied but not unpleasantly full. In fact, that’s the benefit of any pho: it’s good, hearty comfort food that still has a light, fresh feel. The Deluxe comes with beef in several forms: thinly shaved steak, small pieces of tripe, slices of tendon that add complexity, and beef balls (essentially meatballs). The bowl is also brimming with bok choy, scallions and some nice, thick white onion slices on top — added at the end to maintain their crunch.
Pho with any of these varieties of beef as the solo meat is also on the menu, as is beef brisket, beef shank, pork rib and more.
When I ordered the chicken udon off the “rice noodle/udon” section of the menu, I was expecting it to be a stir-fry dish. What came out was a soup, but I wasn’t disappointed. The bowl was filled with large strips of chicken breast, bok choy, carrots and mushrooms, and the udon noodles were a slippery, hearty treat. As with all the soups, the side plate of fresh jalapenos, lime wedges, bean sprouts and Thai basil offer many opportunities for flavor enhancement.
There’s also a seafood soup, with a nice combination of squid, shrimp and scallops, and even some bonus crab. The variety of seafood is good, but I found the broth a little fishy.
If you’re worried that ordering only pho will not be enough to fill you up, there are some good starters. The chicken wings are a good bet: crispy, crunchy, salty snacks. I also enjoyed the steamed shumai, miniature dumpling “purses” filled with ground pork and mushroom, served with soy sauce for dipping.
The service is friendly, and the food arrives quickly. The atmosphere felt a little dingy and the tables were a bit dirty, but I found it easy to overlook in exchange for such delicious food. This spot hasn’t bested my favorite on my list for Madison pho joints — that honor goes to Saigon Noodles — but it’s definitely a close second.
Pho King Good
600 Williamson St.; 630-9882; phokinggoodmadison.com
11 am-9 pm daily; $2-$14