Jason Joyce
The shrimp cake eggs Benedict at Gates & Brovi.
I’m anti-brunch. Please don’t rope me into a multi-hour feast-plus-cocktails that leaves me with a 4 p.m. hangover and a regrettable charge on my credit card. But the combination of a late morning college basketball game and barstool perch at Gates & Brovi has me wavering on this long-held opinion. I’ve been back twice already to the west-side bistro for the shrimp cake eggs Benedict. A crisp breaded coating keeps the shrimp cakes firm and flavorful. They’re served with fresh spinach and pillowy poached eggs on English muffins topped with a hollandaise of ideal consistency. Mixed greens are on the side, which give the decadent dish a veneer of healthiness. On my last trip, I added a citrus and coffee cocktail called “The Best Part of Waking Up.” But just one. After all, I’m not a brunch guy.
