Chris Hynes
Outstanding flavors (clockwise from left) came from the arctic char at Bar Corallini, the porchetta sandwich at Union Corners Brewery and the bourbon pumpkin pie from Humble.
It was not a banner year for Madison restaurants. There wasn’t a clear ingredient hook or discernible dish trend. If 2017 was the year of the taco and 2018 the year of the poke bowl, 2019 distinguished itself, if you can say that, with a fad for CBD-infused drinks and dishes — arguably not a trend that had much to do with amazing flavor. What did happen, especially toward the end of the year, was a spate of closures, such that December became a cringe-fest of “Who’s next?”
Spaces sat empty, from the historic church that housed, briefly, Hail Mary Sports Grill (and, for a long time, Bellini’s) to Ella’s Deli to storefronts on State Street (Lotsa Pizza, Cosi). Even the number of food carts on the Square and Library Mall was down. What’s going on?
The persistence of difficulty in staffing is a contributing factor. There is also a suspicion nation-wide that the food craze has resulted in a saturation point for restaurants. Madison proved no exception.
Feed
The Madison opening that created the most stir was not of a restaurant per se, but of the long-awaited Garver Feed Mill project. The renovated sugar beet factory is already home to several eateries: an east-side branch for Ian’s Pizza, a stand for Calliope ice cream, and a second location for the vegetarian Surya Cafe. Ledger Coffee Roasters provides the requisite java jolt.
The opening of Bar Corallini in the venerable Schenk-Huegel building brought Italian food back to Schenk’s Corners; it features a wood pizza oven and lots of Naples-inspired inspired cocktails.
Portillos, a Chicagoland chain, created somewhat of a sensation when it opened in the parking lot at East Towne in March. Expat Illini came out in droves for Chicago dogs and Italian beef.
Grace, a coffeehouse featuring beans from Heart Coffee Roasters of Portland, Oregon, turned the old Sacred Feather hat shop on State Street into a many-roomed hangout. In short order, Grace opened a second outlet on East Washington Avenue, after Stone Creek coffee closed there.
Oliver’s Public House closed; up-and-coming chef Evan Dannells opened Cadre in the space on Old University Avenue.
What’s in a name?
Tangent, a beer bar and restaurant from Vintage Brewing, opened in the Gebhardt Building on East Washington Avenue; after a few months and a big win at the Great American Beer Festival, owners thought better of the name and changed it to Vintage Brewing Co. Capitol East to match its other locations.
The Winnebago opened in February; by October, the owners had thought better of the name — intended to refer to it being on Winnebago Street and not a reference to Native people. A new name is yet to be announced.
The much-loved Wah Kee noodle shop closed; its owner, Albert Ng, retired. In its place came Pho King Good. Its name truly preceded it.
At the Monona Terrace Hilton, Capitol Chophouse closed, replaced by a new restaurant in a new space, The Audrey — named after the model for the figure in gold atop the state Capitol. Bowl of Heaven at Hilldale became Blended, keeping much the same concept but breaking away from its national franchise. The new Palette Bar & Grill in the Hotel Indigo took its name and decor from the fact that it’s in the former Mautz paint factory.
And what else to expect from a place called Nomad? It moved to Gorham Street after Brickhouse BBQ closed; its original site, the old Cardinal Bar, is now vacant.
The state of State
State Street had an unsettled year. National chains Which Wich and Glaze Teriyaki closed. Into Glaze came Conrad’s Grill, another small chain, featuring grilled tortilla wraps.
Roast Sandwich House closed, but owners Doug Hamaker and Henry Aschauer found their other State Street concept, Forage, successful enough to launch new locations at Hilldale and in Monona.
Crandall’s Peruvian Bistro and Rollicious Creamery closed; Soga Shabu Shabu became Taste of Sichuan. And 107 State opened in the former Freiburg Tap Haus (it closed in April after operating less than a year), becoming the first restaurant on State in recent memory to have a touch of elegance.
Reasons for leaving
While there were many reasons eateries closed this year, one of the saddest is the story behind the Michael’s Frozen Custard on Monroe Street. Sergio De La O Hernandez, spouse of owner Michael Dix, was denied a green card. Dix cited their separation and Hernandez’s inability to manage the restaurant from Mexico as the reason for closing.
Sujeo, Tory Miller’s casual Asian fusion spot, closed in August, despite continued growth along that section of East Washington Avenue. A new venture from Patrick DePula, Jed Spink and John Jerabek is slated for the space.
Forequarter, the East Johnson Street bistro from Underground Food Collective, closed in September; Underground Butcher on Willy Street closed in December, while signs of financial troubles surfaced among the Underground Food Collective’s several LLCs.
Also in December, Roman Candle closed its Fitchburg and Monroe Street locations, Fuegos on Williamson closed, and The Pizza Oven, an east side/Monona institution since 1961, ceased operations.
Alt n’ Bach’s Town Tap closed after 43 years in business; the owners retired. Taj Indian closed as its strip mall on South Park Street has been slated for redevelopment.
More sad closings included the Middleton branch of Chocolaterian; its original Atwood location never reopened after a fire in 2018. Brocach on the Square closed; its Monroe Street offshoot closed in 2018. The Pickle Jar closed both its brick and mortar and its original food cart. Cowboy Jack’s opened in the former Sprecher’s, then had a fire and closed permanently. Blue Agave, Om Fusion, Cafe Porta Alba, Babe’s and Point Burger Bar also closed this year.
Some good news, please?
Union Corners Brewery launched in the Union Corners redevelopment, bringing new vitality to one of Madison’s oldest corners. Finca brought coffee and Salvadoran snacks to Rimrock Road.
The Little Tibet food cart opened a stationary branch at 827 E. Johnson St. (formerly a second La Taguara; the original, on East Washington, remains open). Red Lion Singapore Grill & Japanese Cuisine opened on Cottage Grove Road, cooking Singaporean dishes seldom seen in these parts. Hyderabad House opened near East Towne.
The pie shop Humble, once located on Allen Street, finally reopened at the site of the former Sophia’s on East Johnson.
On Monroe Street, Joon, a new venture from Laila Borokhim, opened at the site of the short-lived Burgrito’s, Sequoia Ramen and Sushi in the former Brocach, and Marie’s Soul Food in the old Maurie’s Chocolates. At Hilldale, Bartaco continued the street taco craze, while Bambu brought Vietnamese and Lao dessert drinks.
Mr. Kimchi seems to have hit on a good formula for the space at 225 King St. (formerly Cocoliquot, Restaurant Muramoto and, briefly, Cuco’s Mexican Fusion). Francisco’s, at 121 E. Main St., became Señor Machetes. Taqueria 3 Amigos closed; Tokyo Sushi opened.
The Tipsy Cow opened a second location in Sun Prairie, while Sun Prairie’s Buck and Honey’s opened a second in Monona — in what may be a first around here: a suburban restaurant opening a satellite location in town. Maybe it was a groundbreaking year after all.