Mike Merg
The term “pub crawl” dates back to 1800, according to the Oxford English Dictionary; there’s a similar word in Japanese, “kuidaore,” which refers to the food version of a pub crawl. Eat until you drop, basically.
In Madison, there are a number of walkable areas where one could spend an afternoon (or evening, or longer) doing a bit of gastronomical immersion learning. I recommend the pedestrian-friendly Monroe Street corridor. And no, you don’t actually have to eat until you drop.
You should start with a little food, though; there will be drinks later. If I can be so bold as to presume you’ll be doing this crawl with at least one friend, let me suggest splitting a pizza and a salad at Pizza Brutta to start things off. The Caesar covers the Neapolitan pizza landscape properly, salty and savory and acidic. In the summer, a basil-forward pie like the Nostrano will be gorgeously fragrant. The sausage is crisp, the red peppers cut through the fat just a little bit, and oh, that basil. It’s okay to eat this pizza with a fork and knife, but after a slice or two, you’re probably going to break down and eat it “a libretto,” “folded like a book.”
Mike Merg
Now you’ve laid down a respectable base, as the kids say, how do you keep it from weighing you down? Some caffeine, perhaps? A few storefronts south on Monroe sits Crescendo Espresso Bar and Cafe, which pours one of those most on-trend beverages in town: nitro-tapped cold press coffee. Using technology typically found in the beer world, the nitro tap turns out an exquisitely smooth cup of cold coffee, gently cascading like a pint of Guinness. Drink this black over ice, or dope it up with some cream for a little extra richness. If coffee isn’t your thing, try a frozen matcha tea. It’s far less sweet than at the chain coffee shops, though Crescendo also has a blueberry version that’s sweet and delicious.
Hang out for a few minutes at Crescendo, soak up your coffee and the casually hip vibe, and when you’re fully charged, set out for Brasserie V. It’s only a minute’s walk. The taps at Brasserie V have been continuously awesome for years. You’ll find sour and wild beers, malty Belgians, dry-hopped saisons — a mind-boggling number and variety of delicious beers. I can’t tell you what’ll be on tap when you arrive, but ask the experts behind the bar for a suggestion. It’ll be good.
Walking south again, you’ll have a half-mile or so to consider your options. You’ll pass the campus of Edgewood College as you move into the heart of the Dudgeon-Monroe neighborhood. Alight upon the Laurel Tavern, a long-standing neighborhood tap, and order an Old Fashioned or maybe a Jack and Coke. Do something old-school, because this joint demands it. Is it Friday? Order the walleye pike.
Move quickly past the temptation of Michael’s Frozen Custard (maybe next time; I didn’t build an allowance for a huge waffle cone into this tour!), and take a seat at the bar at jacs Dining and Tap House. Speaking of Fridays, I love the fried cod here, but there are six other days of the week to consider too. When I think of beer at jacs, I think of New Holland Dragon’s Milk. It’s almost the house beer here, seemingly always on tap. You’ll find other beers from breweries across the United States and Belgium. Try something new here, something unfamiliar.
Bluephies Restaurant and Vodkatorium turned 20 earlier this year. It’s still a goofy, neon-tinted quirksplosion of a diner. The cookie dough eggrolls are still a marvel. But the cocktails are what butter Bluephies’ bread. Try something spirit-forward at this point in your travels; you’ve earned it. The rye whiskey and allspice liqueur Lion’s Tail, perhaps? Or maybe a zingy Monroe Street Mule to wake your palate up before the end of this road.
If you started this crawl in the early afternoon, I hope you’ve taken your time and enjoyed each stop. The sun has started to set, and if the weather’s right, fireflies are lighting your way past Lake Wingra’s wetlands. If you’ve waited until autumn, the leaves will be gorgeous in sunset. Winter? Well, a basket of hot, fresh shrimp fritters at Gates & Brovi are appropriate for any season. Prop yourself up on the immaculately smooth polished bar, order a glass of white or, if you’re me, a tequila and tonic with a lemon, and remember your trip down Monroe Street.
