Robin Shepard
The bocks and doppelbocks of spring have started to start to appear. These two styles have been around for centuries. Historically they were released between Christmas and Easter; the stronger doppelbock became known as “liquid bread,” and it was meant to help people though the traditional fasting that occurs during Lent.
While bocks and doppelbocks are now available year-round, there remains a strong seasonality to the release of the majority of them. Madison’s Great Dane Pub and Brewery takes the season so seriously that it’ll turn out more than a dozen versions of the style; they’ll be tapped at its annual Bockfest. One of my favorites in that lineup is the Oktoppelbock, a beer that combines rich maltiness with the session-like qualities of an Oktoberfest.
What is it? Oktoppelbock from the Great Dane Pub and Brewery (available at the downtown location only, and will also be served at Great Dane Bockfest).
Style: Oktoppelbock falls somewhere between the Oktoberfest and the doppelbock. Most medium-bodied amber bocks range from 6.5% to 7.5% ABV, while fuller-bodied, darker doppelbocks may range upward of 8% ABV. In contrast, the Oktoberfest or Märzen is medium-bodied, often around 5%-6% ABV, with golden to dark copper color, clean and well-balanced, with a nod to the malty side.
Background: This year, the Great Dane is expanding its Bockfest and for the first time will welcome other local brewers to take part in the event at the Hilldale pub. Great Dane Bockfest will be held Saturday, Feb. 20. “I’m excited about hanging with good brewer friends. I’m a malt-head and always prefer those beers and what the winter months have to offer,” says Great Dane brewmaster Rob LoBreglio. “Bock beers are the reason I’m a brewer.”
Oktoppelbock has appeared almost annually at the Great Dane since it was developed more than a decade ago. It emerged out of a collegial relationship between LoBreglio and his longtime brewing buddy Kirby Nelson. The pair have teamed up on several beers over the years. This one grew out of several pilot batches in the early 2000s, when Nelson was brewmaster for the Capital Brewery in Middleton. (Nelson is now brewmaster and co-owner of the Wisconsin Brewing Company in Verona.) Some of those early trials led to the development of one of Capital’s most popular seasonal brews, its Autumnal Fire. “When we were collaborating we came up with the idea of an Oktoberfest brewed to the strength of the doppelbock,” says LoBreglio. Eventually, LoBreglio and Nelson went different ways with their beers, but for those most familiar with both brands it’s easy to see their malt-centric similarities. Oktoppelbock is made with all-German malts and Hallertau Mittelfrüh hops. It finishes at 7.7% ABV and sells for $6/pint, $8/crowler and $14/growler (refill).
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Inviting caramel notes and breadiness.
Appearance: Clear copper color and a medium, soft creamy and off-white head.
Texture: Full-bodied, round and soft. There is some alcoholic warmth, but it takes a while to build over the course of a pint.
Taste: A smooth maltiness that’s very seductive with its caramel and biscuit sweetness.
Finish/Aftertaste: The smooth maltiness continues, yet it finishes very clean. There is a latent warmth in a pint of this beer, and it takes time to notice, making this beer deceptively strong.
Glassware: The Great Dane will serve it in a British pint. However, I prefer it in the footed pilsner or the Willi Becher with an inward taper at the lip to focus the malty nose and show off the beer’s brilliant copper color.
Pairs well with: German food, ranging from sausage to schnitzel; and Italian entrées with slightly sweet sauces. For cheese, look for a style that offers cow’s milk and cream sweetness, even better if it has a slight nutty sweetness like accents of almonds and hazelnuts (a suggestion is Roth Kase Private Reserve).
The Verdict: I really look forward to this beer every year. Its smooth maltiness is inviting to those who love malty beers. There’s a solid sweetness from the German malts, which lend soft caramel and bready flavors that finish balanced and remarkably clean for such a big beer. Its 7.7% ABV is something to be aware of, because it drinks so easy, almost like the fest biers of Oktoberfest. This is definitely one you’ll want on your short list of bocks to celebrate the season.
