Robin Shepard
Extra-local: Rich Joseph grows the hops for the beer.
Owner Rich Joseph was shooting for a homey atmosphere with his Hop Garden Brewery Taproom in Paoli. “We’ve tried to make this like having a beer in your backyard, only you don’t have to do all the clean-up,” says Joseph.
Joseph started the Hop Garden Brewery in 2014 to showcase Wisconsin-grown hops from his Belleville area farm. He opened his brewery taproom in Paoli in 2015 in the rear of the limestone Mill, listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. The mill building has a beautiful park-like setting on the Sugar River and the Hop Garden taproom is often mentioned as one of the elements that jump-started Paoli’s current renaissance.
And it is contributing more than beer. Joseph and one of his staff work to book the bands that play on the Mill Stage — about 200 shows from April through the end of October — on the banks of the Sugar River Wednesdays-Sundays. The grounds surrounding the main Mill building have become a magnet for those looking for a relaxing family-friendly day trip. “People like the grounds because they can sit on the grass or at picnic tables, listen to music, talk with friends and have a beer,” says Joseph.
Ten years ago when Joseph opened, he wasn’t sure what to expect or even if the taproom would succeed. “The building was close to our hop farm, and it was the only rent I could afford,” says Joseph. The taproom initially struggled to attract visitors. “At first, nobody knew where we were, but when we added music in the park things really started taking off for the Hop Garden — and other businesses,” he adds.
Since then, the number of bands has increased and the grounds and seating area have expanded. The audience has grown steadily too; during the COVID pandemic, attendance grew by double-digit percentages as people looked for opportunities to enjoy the outdoors with space to spread out.
As for the beer, the Paoli taproom serves a full range of Hop Garden brews. The brewery has most of its beers made by contract breweries like Brewfinity Brewing Company of Oconomowoc, but a second taproom in Evansville, which Joseph opened last summer, has its own one-barrel brewing system. He uses it for recipe development; these limited releases do find their way to taps in Paoli.
Among Hop Garden’s mainstays is Bushel Basket double IPA, one of Joseph’s best beers. Its rich malty backbone lends body and warmth while the Cascade and Nugget hops bring a rich piney character. Other regulars that deserve a shout-out are Sunset Imperial Amber, Paddler Pursuit American Pale Ale, and Rising Sun Wheat.
Joseph is also responding to increased interest in lighter and lower ABV lagers. His current taproom list includes Smooth Operator at 5.5% ABV and Porch Light with a mild 3.5% ABV. Both are light-bodied, easy drinking, with a clean finish, and so very quaffable in the afternoon sun.
Another hit for summer drinking is Jamfest, a hazy IPA made with blackberries from Joseph’s farm that lends this sharp, hoppy dry beer a tart berry finish.
Having a local craft beer on tap certainly adds to the popularity of Paoli, and with live music playing in the background under the canopy of the trees as the slow shallow Sugar River flows by, the Hop Garden taproom is among Dane County’s best places for a pint, or maybe two if they happen to be Joseph’s low-ABV lagers.
The Hop Garden taproom in Paoli is open Wednesday-Friday from 4-8 p.m., Saturdays 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Sundays noon-5 p.m.
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