Robin Shepard
Last March, when Donald Trump announced that the U.S. Space Force would become a new branch of the country’s military, Hop & Barrel Brewing co-owner Brian Priefer took notice. “The second I heard that I called our lawyer and said let’s trademark the name,” Priefer says. “It was light-hearted. We thought it was funny.” Regardless of the name, this beer is no joke. Space Force is seriously hopped.
What is it? Space Force double IPA by Hop & Barrel Brewing of Hudson, Wisconsin.
Style: The double IPA (also called the imperial India pale ale or IIPA), is deep golden to reddish amber in color and medium- to full-bodied. The style is known for a strong hop profile with a background of maltiness that adds a spicy, warm complexity. IIPAs commonly range from 7.5–10.5 percent ABV.
Background: Hop & Barrel opened less than a year ago in an 8,000-square-foot building in Hudson, about a block away from the St. Croix River. While its proximity to the Twin Cities might suggest its primary market is Minnesota, that’s not the case. “We’re selling 100 percent in Wisconsin,” says co-owner Justin Terbeest. The brewery owners started self-distributing to Madison a few weeks ago in a van, making trips here every 7-10 days. “If we are not going into another state, then where better to go in Wisconsin than Madison,” says Terbeest. “We like Madison. You have to walk past the craft beer to get to the macros in stores there — it’s so awesome,” he says.
Space Force features Galaxy hops, a space reference that also draws smiles from more than just hopheads. Those, alongside Mandarina Bavaria hops, add tropical notes of citrus. Columbus hops are added for bittering. And, there’s also a secret fourth hop that adds to the fruity blend. The beer’s malty backbone balancing all those hops is mild yet firm, and it comes from smooth, bready two-row brewer’s malt and a light amount of soft, sweet caramel malt that also lends a golden color. The beer has been so popular the brewery has doubled production to 30-barrel batches with each one selling out in about a week. Space Force finishes at 8.5 percent ABV and sells for $11-$12/4-pack.
Hop & Barrel currently sells three other beers in Madison: Crooked Grin IPA, the milk stout Lactose Panda, and a helles lager called Minnesconsin.
Some might think the name Space Force would be controversial. It has been — in that a lot of other breweries have had the same idea. Since being granted the trademark last March, the small Hop & Barrel brewery of Hudson has sent more than three dozen cease and desist letters to other breweries across the country for using the same name.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Lots of fruity citrus.
- Appearance: Hazy orange-copper color. A medium bubbly tan head.
- Texture: Medium-bodied, bubbly, with some softness.
- Taste: Assertive juicy tropical hoppiness with hints of orange, tangerine and passion fruit. A mild yet firm malty backbone lends soft sweetness and warmth.
- Finish/Aftertaste: Lingering notes of tropical hoppiness.
Glassware: I enjoy the heavy clear glass mug for the double IPA because a thick handle and glass provides insulation and allows the beer to slowly warm, making the complex interplay between the hops and malt to emerge even more.
Pairs well with: spicy entrees and appetizers. This beer will also match well with sharp cheddars and blue cheeses.
The Verdict: Space Force is very approachable and its popularity is well deserved.
It’s risen to the top of my list of hoppy beer favorites so far this year. What really stands out are the juicy Galaxy hops, complemented by the orange and grape notes of the Mandarina Bavaria hops. It’s assertive, with a citrus focus that isn’t bitter. The background malts soften and sweeten the lingering juicy tropical flavor of the hops. There’s also some spicy warmth in the finish from the 8.5 percent alcohol that reminds you this is a big beer — not one for little hands.
