Phoebe Kranefuss
Two yummy looking summer drinks.
Lucille’s La Paloma, left, and Painchiller are lovely alternatives.
You’ll be seeing more zero-proof or N/A (non-alcoholic) cocktails on menus this summer. Zero-proof cocktails are non-alcoholic beverages typically made with many of the same ingredients and attention to detail as traditional cocktails, but without alcohol. They’ve become increasingly popular in the past few years — partially in response to an increased focus on health that started during the pandemic (remember when everyone took up running?) — and have picked up speed as manufacturers have responded to demand with inventive, high-quality zero-proof aperitifs and other alcohol substitutes.
“People want to come, hang out, enjoy a drink, be social — without the headache the next day,” says Mark Rehberg, bar manager at Heritage Tavern. He’s been crafting zero-proof cocktails for a few years. “Pre-pandemic, about one in 10 drink orders were for zero-proof cocktails. Now, it’s more like one in five,” he says.
Phoebe Kranefuss
Drink in a colorful glass.
Pretty as a picture: Heritage’s Galangal.
Heritage Tavern’s zero-proof cocktail menu includes a range of creative options, including an old fashioned made with Wisco Pop cherry soda, Gnista Barreled Oak non-alcoholic spirit, Wilfred’s Aperitif (also non-alcoholic). I tried one, and loved it: it was complex, flavorful, and had a snappy kick characteristic of a traditional old fashioned. I also sampled the Galangal (I had to look it up: galangal is closely related to ginger), which was fresh and herbaceous, with a delightful aftertaste thanks to the inclusion of cardamom bitters. Both drinks were served with the care and attention to detail that I’d expect from a traditional cocktail at an upscale bar (nice glassware, careful garnishes, bartender flair); both drinks were also well-balanced, and neither was too sweet—which I’d been worried about. I want to feel like an adult at a bar, not a kid drinking a Shirley Temple, and these beverages delivered.
Lucille offers a menu of zero proof cocktails, too — they’re called “free-spirited cocktails,” and serve them alongside N/A sparkling wine, a non-alcoholic juicy IPA, and a housemade mixed seltzer menu. I tried La Paloma, made with Ritual Zero Proof Tequila Alternative, as well as grapefruit, lime, soda water and sugar. The drink was a bit sweet for my taste, but presented pleasantly, and will be lovely to drink outside on a warm summer evening. I also tried the Painchiller — Lucille’s N/A answer to the Painkiller cocktail — made with coconut cream, pineapple, lime, and orange. The Painchiller was even sweeter than La Paloma, which is not an inherent flaw, but I found myself wishing there was another ingredient to replace the missing rum and cardamom in a Painkiller. This beverage tasted less like a well-balanced cocktail that happened to be alcohol-free, and more like a cocktail with the alcohol left out. Perhaps it’s because of the lack of spirit-free alcohol, which I think is a necessary ingredient in N/A cocktails, especially now that there are so many good options on the market. Both drinks were nice treats, but neither tasted as intentional or grown up as Heritage Tavern’s.
Turn Key’s menu includes four “mocktails”; I ordered the “Lemons All the Way Down,” which includes citrus and top note lemon tonic. The drink was refreshing and light, and paired well with an order of Cheese Puppies. The presentation was nice, and the drink was enjoyable, if not entirely memorable — I appreciated the ritual of a fancy cocktail with my curds, and didn’t find myself missing the addition of alcohol at all. Our server talked me through other options, too (she also recommended the “Holy Calamity, Scream Insanity,” similar to a Manhattan). She mentioned that all N/A cocktail recipes are created in-house; they mirror traditional versions, but are meant to hold their own, which is why the N/A options don’t mirror the cocktail menu exactly.
The best part of zero-proof cocktails? The night time bike ride home from the bar (one of my favorite summer rituals) is just as thrilling, and a whole lot safer. I found myself noticing my surroundings and appreciating the newly-bloomed trees just a little bit more, and I woke up the next day feeling ready for a five-mile run. Personally, I’m not giving up alcohol entirely any time soon, but I’ll definitely mix in a zero-proof cocktail from time to time: it’s a great option that’s healthier and less expensive than a traditional cocktail, and I’m here for it.
Other N/A all-stars
Merchant has N/A originals and notes on its regular menu which cocktails can be made as N/A.
State Line Distillery has an N/A negroni made with spirit-free London Dry “gin,” verjus rouge, spirit-free aperitivo, orange bitters, and spices, plus plenty of other options (spirit-forward and spirit-free) — and, of course, a patio.
Mint Mark has several N/A options including the Hey Mickey!: non-alcoholic gin, lime cordial, basil syrup, grapefruit, and orange blossom water, served up.
Gib’s doesn’t publish its N/A menu, but ask the bartenders and they will whip up something delicious.
Blind Shot Social Club has a baker’s dozen of N/A cocktail options.
