Sunny Frantz
The apricot pistachio crumble "Babka with a Purpose" from Bayk.
Susan Kay of Bayk says that the babka she specializes in is common throughout Eastern Europe, including Ukraine. A typical Ukrainian babka would be filled with nuts, "probably hazelnuts or walnuts," says Kay, or a mix of dried fruits and nuts, or “whatever is available,” which, increasingly, may not be a lot as the humanitarian crisis grows.
Bayk is donating 40 percent of its sales of its apricot pistachio crumble babka, aka “Babka With a Purpose,” to José Andrés’ World Central Kitchen, one of the many agencies striving to help the Ukrainian people. The group is serving food at eight border crossings as well as setting up more sites in Eastern European countries that refugees are heading to, and supporting existing restaurants in Ukraine.
Bloom Bake Shop has joined in a movement among bakers called “Hamantaschen for Ukraine,” baking the traditional Jewish tri-cornered pastry with fruit filling and donating 70 percent of the proceeds to a group called Polish Humanitarian Action that is assisting refugees at the Polish border with its SOS Ukraine initiative. Bloom’s hamantaschen will be sold March 4-17.
Interest in the culture of Ukraine has increased since the country’s attack by the Russians. If you’re looking to learn more about Ukrainian cuisine, a trip to Chicago’s Ukrainian Village is probably the closest option. Tryzub Ukrainian Kitchen serves “modern Ukrainian cuisine” as well as standards like pierogi, goulash and chicken paprikash.
If you want to stay in Madison, you’ll have to pull together a smorgasbord yourself, drawing from Eastern European dishes that would be typical in Ukraine. In addition to babka, there’s schnitzel from Adamah Neighborhood Table, Essen Haus and Heritage Tavern, and potato pancakes from spots like the Dairyland Family Restaurant, Pancake Cafe and Stalzy’s Deli.
Borscht, the Ukrainian national dish, is a featured seasonal soup at Stalzy’s Deli, but it is not on the menu right now. Through the end of the month, though, Hungarian goulash is. It’s made with braised beef and is a cousin to the Ukrainian version.
Wisconsinites will likely be familiar with the kinds of sausages often served in Ukraine; Polish kielbasa is often similar (depending on the kielbasa recipe, which vary). Finally, Intermarket, 5317 Old Middleton Road, carries both Russian and Ukrainian groceries.
If you know of other benefits or typical Ukrainian dishes served locally, please let us know in the comments.