Meat, glorious meat! The molcajete is named for the traditional stone bowl it is served in.
Madison has been experiencing a taco boom. Canteen and BelAir Cantina (and to some extent the Ohio Tavern) offer a gourmet-ish take on the quintessential Mexican street food, dressing up tortillas with unusual flavors and unexpected fillings. It’s fun to riff on a classic, but there’s something to be said for authentic recipes executed to perfection. Fortunately, that’s the focus at Blue Agave, the new restaurant that opened in December at 117 S. Butler Street.
Owned by couple Jose Mata and Sandra Alamilla Lopez, Blue Agave specializes in classic Mexican cuisine, with some American and Tex-Mex thrown in for good measure. Almost everything on the menu is made in-house, from fresh salsas to the guacamole prepared tableside. The former home of Cajun-Creole restaurant The Bayou got a much-needed makeover when Blue Agave moved in. I’m pleased to report that the creepy jester statue is gone, and the Mardi Gras murals have been painted over with an elegant shade of dark blue.
The restaurant was bustling on a recent Friday night and was similarly busy on subsequent lunch and dinner visits. This surprised me initially, considering the restaurant’s location a few blocks off the Capitol Square and the proliferation of other dining options (Mexican and otherwise) in the vicinity. But this place deserves to be popular.
Among the many stars on Blue Agave’s expansive menu is the molcajete. Named for the traditional stone bowl it’s served in, the dish features generous portions of grilled steak, chicken, and several truly incredible bacon-wrapped shrimp atop a mound of spicy chorizo and sauteed onions. It’s essentially a giant goblet of meat topped with queso fresco and fresh jalapeno, and more than enough for two people. It comes with a choice of flour or corn tortillas, which arrive warm and wrapped in tinfoil. The dish also features grilled nopales (cactus), which is normally not my favorite, but in this case it provides an excellent textural compliment.
Chiles rellenos were another standout. It’s hard to go wrong when you’re stuffing pork and cheese inside a deep-fried poblano, but it’s exceptionally satisfying here. The dish comes topped with a mild and smoky red chili sauce and slices of ripe avocado. The accompanying rice and beans were fairly standard issue, but rounded out the meal nicely. I am passionate about nachos, and I appreciate that Blue Agave’s “nachos del jefe” features both steak and chicken. Instead of shredded cheese, they’re topped with delicious queso dip, which is the way to go, if you ask me.
I was skeptical about the tableside guacamole — fearing it might be gimmicky or just awkward to execute. It involves a gigantic rolling cart staffed by a “guacamolier” — but it turned out to be another highlight. Blue Agave offers several varieties, including one with pineapple and queso fresco and another with mango salsa. I opted for the more traditional “rostizado,” which features roasted poblano peppers. I have not had better guacamole anywhere, and it’s a steal for $8. Don’t forget to tip the guacamolier!
Classics like burritos, enchiladas and fajitas also make an excellent showing. A smoky, velvety-smooth Colorado sauce, made with red chiles, tops an outstanding (and huge) burrito, which is packed with flavorful carnitas, plus roasted bell peppers and onions. One of my favorite dishes, enchiladas suizas, came stuffed with chicken and topped with a mild green salsa and a drizzle of sour cream. It was tasty enough, but I was hoping for more cheese. (Suizas means Swiss, and the dish was named for its liberal use of dairy). Tamales were reasonably good, packed with shredded pork and topped with more of the smoky red chile sauce, but didn’t pack the same punch as some of the other dishes.
Blue Agave is named for the plant from which mezcal and tequila are distilled, and the spirits make a strong showing — there are a dozen different varieties of margarita, plus some creative tropical drinks, including an intriguing riff on an old fashioned that combines Korbel and tequila. The restaurant also offers reasonably priced tequila flights, served with the traditional sangritas chaser. The non-alcoholic beverage offerings are noteworthy as well, particularly the house-made lemonades that come infused with fresh fruit.
After dinner service, Blue Agave transforms into a nightclub and has become a popular spot for dancing, according to a hostess. Truly, this is a place that can do it all. The tacos are just the beginning.
Blue Agave
117 S. Butler St.; 608-467-7733; blueagavemadison.com;
11 am-10 pm Mon. - Thurs., 11 am-2 am Fri. - Sat., 10 am-8 pm Sun.; $5-$20
