Linda Falkenstein
A couple tacos, a tamale and gratis rice and beans make a nice nosh.
The rise of the taco in town has been swift. Not only are plenty of taquerias springing up all over town, but Cali/Tex/Mex spots like the Ohio Tavern and Canteen have joined pioneer Tex Tubb’s Taco Palace in offering a host of traditional and not-so-traditional taco fillings. Now there’s BelAir Cantina, a Milwaukee-based chainlet that opened in late summer in the former Francesca’s Al Lago just off the Capitol Square.
The large room boasts a huge serpentine bar set up well for eating as well as drinking; the rest of the space is filled with booths and tables for two and four. This is the roomy, good-time, Mexican food and drink-special spot that you expect to find near a big university, but which the UW-Madison has never really had. Purists should look elsewhere, because starting from the restaurant’s recorded phone message (what’s with the phony south-of-the-border accent? Not okay!) to the soundtrack of U.S. pop music of the ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s, this is a restaurante Norteamericana. But if you’re looking for some fun food and a few beers, you’ll probably enjoy BelAir just as it was intended.
BelAir is at its most appealing on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Both function as “taco Tuesdays,” when eight of the 25 varieties of tacos (and both flavors of tamales) are $2. Dos Equis Amber and Modelo Especial on tap are also $2, so the deal works perfectly well as a happy hour.
Order three tacos and BelAir throws in rice and beans at no extra charge. With the generous basket of free chips — quite possibly the tastiest in town — and three salsas, you have a reasonable meal for just $6.
Let’s start with the chips, as you will. I have spent a quite a bit of time trying to pinpoint the source of their appeal. They’re warm, very crisp, salty, and not too greasy, none of which explains how good they are. The trio of accompanying salsas are made daily in-house, so their heat levels might vary from day to day, according to a server. They are a zippy, citrusy salsa verde, tasting very much of fresh tomatillos; a thin roasted tomato, and an orange “spicy arbol,” which on two occasions was not at all spicy. However, on its good days, it’s creamy like a tomato bisque with an edge. Also good as a dip for the chips is the esquite appetizer, sweet corn kernels (they’re supposed to be grilled, but I couldn’t see or taste that) in a lime-cilantro crema, and the ceviche, which is not particularly seafood-heavy but is tart and perfect on the chips, especially if you add some hot chili oil.
Of the tacos eligible for the $2 deal, I was most pleasantly surprised with the vegetarian port-queso (portobello mushrooms and black beans topped with queso fundido, chimichurri and radishes), which had a depth of mushroom flavor and a subtle cheesiness from the queso; I only wish there were more of the lightly pickled radishes for contrast. Also successful: the ninja pig, a mashup of moo-shu pork and banh mi toppings in a tortilla. The pork wasn’t “crispy” as described, but was mostly tender and the flavors worked well together. I’d also recommend the black bean tamale, which was moist and just what you want from a warm bundle of masa.
The carne asada is just okay, featuring tender chopped bits of steak but lacking the char that makes this cut taste like something more than hamburger. Spicy pollo is a little dry and the housemade chorizo didn’t have much flavor. The tilapia taco had too little tilapia and too little citrus slaw topping. But what makes this one is the rich avocado salsa that finishes it. When ordering in the future, I’d ask the kitchen to go heavy on the avocado salsa for any taco that has it listed as an ingredient.
Okay, so let’s pretend it’s not Tuesday or Thursday or that you’re just ready to venture beyond the $2 club. Six vegetarian tacos, three of which are vegan, include a good roasted veggie and kale topped with that avocado salsa (though the kale could have been cooked more); I also liked the broccoli and artichoke. I’d skip the $6 lobster shrimp taco, the most expensive on the menu; the lobster is almost non-existent. Carnitas are a bit dry, as was a Texas brisket special. But I liked the fried avocado and bacon, though for what the bacon lends it, BelAir could omit the bacon and make it vegetarian.
Burritos, fajitas and tortas are also on the menu, featuring many of the same fillings, but the mix-and-match allure of the taco menu is almost irresistible. It’s easy to go overboard on the appetizers too, so much so that I found myself ordering the hot dog taquitos (hot dogs rolled in a tortilla and fried to a crisp) which turned out to be a pretty great hot dog preparation, although probably more appropriate to the niños menu.
Kids will like BelAir, but with its many drink deals (Monday it’s mezcal and margaritas, Wednesday it’s Wisconsin and California craft beer) and a Monday-Friday happy hour with even more specials, the downtown crowd may have found a replacement for the much-missed Francesca’s happy hour.
BelAir Cantina
111 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.; 608-620-6040; Belaircantina.com
Kitchen hours 11 am-11 pm Mon.-Thurs., 11 am-midnight Fri., 10 am-midnight Sat., 10 am-11 pm Sun.; $2-$19
