Laura Zastrow
Chilaquiles go well with a couple of sunny-side-up eggs.
There have been so many new Mexican restaurants coming to the west Madison/Middleton area lately, it’s hard to keep track of them all. Gloria’s, Compadres, Los Atlantes, La Nopalera, Lalo’s — all have opened within the last year.
For people who grew up with Chi-Chi’s and Pedro’s as their only knowledge of Mexican food, exploring these new eateries, with menus that more closely resemble those found in Mexico, can be scary — or exciting. But I’m determined to make a believer out of you. Gloria’s, which opened up a little over six months ago on Junction Road, is a spot that should convert just about anyone.
The cheerful space has walls painted in warm tones, adorned with charming, hand-painted murals. Service is attentive and friendly. The place is usually bustling, but the tables turn quickly so wait times are minimal.
If you enjoy fire-level heat, make sure to ask for the hot salsa right off the bat to go with your chips. It’s a nice peachy color, which leads me to believe there’s some habanero in there.
I’m not usually one to order a salad at a Mexican restaurant, but I was intrigued by the ensalada de nopales. Essentially a pico de gallo with cactus as well as tomatoes, red onions and cilantro, here the cactus is delightfully crisp and fresh. Avocado, queso fresco and lime wedges dress up the salad even more. Fresh cactus isn’t the easiest ingredient to work with, so I’m quick to order it when someone else has done the dirty work of preparing it.
The vegetarian selection at Gloria’s is impressive, plus quite a few standard dishes can be made with a plentiful mix of grilled vegetables. I enjoyed Gloria’s veggie taco, double corn tortillas filled with ensalada de nopales, but it could have benefitted from more avocado.
The enchiladas de mole is another standout vegetarian option. Enchiladas rojas are one of my favorites, especially because of how saucy and cheesy they are, but I appreciated that these enchiladas were not too heavy. Yes, the chocolatey mole sauce is rich with a slight edge of heat, but it doesn’t overwhelm the enchiladas and the cheese stays inside the tortilla for this dish. A sprinkle of sesame seeds adds unexpected depth.
You have to go to Gloria’s on the weekend for the pambazo, another specialty of the house.
A large white telera bun is filled with a savory mix of chorizo and cubed potato, with shredded lettuce thrown in for good measure. The entire sandwich is then dipped in a guajillo pepper sauce, which is not real spicy, just real good. At the risk of sounding gushy, try this saucy sandwich. And use your silverware.
We were excited to try the pozole one Saturday since it’s also listed on the menu as a weekend special. But it’s not available until later in the fall. I’d recommend taking it off the menu until it is, to avoid getting diners’ hopes up — I heard another customer have the same disappointing exchange a few weeks later.
A dish that I loved here but don’t see often enough on local menus is chilaquiles. Chilaquiles are made from fried corn tortilla pieces, slathered in salsa verde, mixed with onions and Chihuahua cheese, drizzled with sour cream and, in this case, topped with two fried eggs, cooked to order.
We were pleasantly surprised with the camarones a la diabla, which we ordered on a recommendation from our server. A nice portion of chipotle-seasoned shrimp are accompanied by your choice of tortillas or tostadas, along with lettuce, tomatoes and some incredible guacamole. This dish has some kick.
Standard dishes, from tacos to sopes to fajitas to nachos, don’t disappoint. Fillings of carnitas, pastor and carne asada are all well-prepared and delicious. Tacos are just $2 each on Tuesdays, too.
Other than being a little let down by the elusive pozole, I think Gloria’s is a winner. The eatery provides a viable option for professionals looking for a good west side lunch, as well as families who want an inexpensive, no-fuss dinner spot. The kitchen is creating tasty Mexican food, with many dishes that set them apart from the crowd.
Gloria’s Mexican Restaurant
610 Junction Road, Madison, 608-203-9222, gloriasmexicanrestaurant.com
10 am-10 pm daily, $2-$13
