The public’s current intense interest in bitter beers is driving brewers to look for different takes on pale ales and IPAs. They’re turning to new varieties of hops and adjuncts that redefine the tropical hop side of bitter beers. Tyranena is well known for its hoppy beers. Its Scurvy, an IPA made with dried orange peels, was introduced in 2008. Last summer, the Lake Mills brewer teamed up with Milwaukee’s Lakefront Brewery to make Two Lakes Triple IPA, a creative brew composed of five different hops and fresh grapefruit. One of Tyranena’s newest creations is a spin-off of both these beers, made with blood oranges.
What is it? Blood Orange Imperial IPA from Tyranena Brewing Company.
Style: The India Pale Ale (IPA) emphasizes hoppiness, which can take the form of herbal, citrus and/or piney character in both aroma and flavor. Adding the prefix “imperial” means the beer is made with a lot of everything, resulting in more aroma, flavor and strength. IPAs are medium-bodied, golden- to copper-colored and range from 5.5% to 7.5% ABV. Imperial IPAs (also called IIPAs or double IPAs) are an American take on the style, intended to meet the public’s quest for hoppy boldness. IIPAs are similar in color to the IPA, but they have more body and alcohol.
Background: This is an IIPA with a lot going on. Obviously, it’s made with blood oranges, which offer citrus and tangerine flavors and hints of raspberry-like fruity sweetness. Brewmaster Rob Larson says he adds about 50 gallons (1.5 barrels) of puree into a 23-barrel-batch of beer.
Hop selection also plays a big part in differentiating this beer from Tyranena’s other bitter brews. It features Citra and Azacca hops, the Citra lending grapefruit, while the Azacca provide mango, orange and more hints of grapefruit. Azacca is a relatively new hop, named after the Haitian god of agriculture. This creative blend of hops and blood oranges provides a burst of tropical fruitiness that’s assertive, strong and distinctive.
Blood Orange Imperial IPA finishes at 7.5% ABV and an estimated 100 IBUs (International Bitterness Units). In the brewery’s tasting room it sells for $5.50/glass and $17/growler. The beer is also expected to appear at some of Madison’s taphouses over the next few weeks; check your favorite.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Overtones of grapefruit and orange citrus, intermingled with a spicy hoppiness.
Appearance: Clear, reddish-copper color and a modest soft tan head.
Texture: Medium- to full-bodied.
Taste: The hints of tropical hoppiness, especially citrus, blend with a subtle orange-raspberry sweetness followed by spicy hoppiness and light biscuit maltiness.
Finish/Aftertaste: The bubbly carbonation sharpens the Citra hops, ending with dry and spicy bitterness.
Glassware: If you really want to search for the nuances of the hops and the blood orange, go with the snifter or a glass shape that focuses the nose.
Pairs well with: Like most IPAs and IIPAs, this goes well with a spicy entrée. I also find that musty cheeses like blues or a mild Camembert with a mold-based salty rind can be nice companions for the tropical accents of this beer.
The Verdict: This is one of the more interesting IIPAs I’ve had recently. It’s not what most might think of in an IIPA. It offers complexity in tropical and spicy flavor, especially as the fruity blood orange mingles with the mango and orange of the Azacca hops. This isn’t a beer with straightforward aggressive bitterness. Nor is it all about the blood orange.
It took a little time before I warmed up to it, but I’m glad I waited beyond my first impression. A second look made me think about where the hops flavors start and stop, and where the orange comes into play. At very cold refrigerator temperatures the dry-bitterness really lingers, and for those who like hop-focused beers, that’s a selling point. I found that allowing it to warm in the glass brought out the sweeter and softer notes of orange, which I really enjoyed.