Robin Shepard
Capital Brewery has long used the Wisconsin Capitol dome as part of its packaging and artwork. A classic of the modern craft brewing era is Capital’s Special Pilsner. It was one of the very first beers offered when Capital began brewing back in 1986. Created by then-brewmaster Fred Scheer, it was at the center of the brewery’s emerging German image.
What is it? Special Pilsner by Capital Brewery of Middleton.
Style: The pilsner is bright yellow to deep golden lager that’s light-bodied, well-balanced, crisp and clean. Pilsners often showcase German hops and malts. Generally, theys range in alcohol from 4 to 5.5 percent.
Background: Capital’s Special Pilsner is a standard for the Middleton brewery. It’s been offered continuously since the brewery opened and remains popular among the brewery’s faithful. There’s been a resurgence of interest in lagers by U.S. craft brewers. In recent months, Ale Asylum, Lake Louie, Parched Eagle and Lone Girl have been among those locally to turn out pilsners. Capital’s take on the style falls between two popular variants: the Bohemian pilsner, moderately bitter with floral and grassy aroma of Czech Saaz hops, and the Bavarian style of pils, a little lighter in color with a dry earthy character associated with German Noble hops. Capital’s Special Pilsner features the soft, slightly sweet flavor of German pilsner malt with herbal Czech Saaz hops, which are the signature flavors to look for in great imported pilsners.
This beer finishes at 4.7 percent ABV and about 30 IBUs (International Bitterness Units). A six-pack sells for around $9. It also periodically appears around town on draught in local restaurants and bars. The brewery just put it on tap in its beer garden for its annual summer run.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Light herbal and floral hoppiness.
- Appearance: Clear golden with a medium, soft, white head.
- Taste: A light herbal kiss of hops is up front with a mild, clean malty background.
- Finish/Aftertaste: A crisp herbal hoppiness with a touch of grainy, bready maltiness. However, this beer finishes very clean with no lingering aftertaste.
Glassware: The pilsner glass is best for appreciating the beer's color and effervescence. Serve the colder the better, below 40 °F, to bring out the clean, crisp and dry qualities.
Pairs well with: a range of food from burgers, brats and fish to moderately spicy dishes. The pilsner is a great palate cleanser, with flavor that’s crisp, clean and balanced with little aftertaste.
The Verdict: This is a pleasant, easy-drinking pilsner. Nothing flashy, just a solid clean-tasting lager. I like how the Saaz hops come in early with their herbal aroma. Later they help transform the finish with a touch of dryness. There’s also a soft, bready background from the pilsner malt that provides a touch of sweetness and balance. I admit that Capital Special Pilsner is a beer that I’ve kind of forgotten about in recent years, but with the renewed interest pilsners, it’s worth getting reacquainted with this classic.
