Robin Shepard
Phil Hoechst, owner and brewmaster at the Hop Haus in Verona, might be best known for his hoppy beer portfolio, but he’s just as serious when it comes to making traditional German-style beers. His parents came from Wetzlar, a city of around 51,000 people north of Frankfurt, where his grandparents, aunt, uncle and cousins still live. Those family ties provided the inspiration for his recently released summer seasonal, a Bavarian hefeweizen.
What is it? Dairy Air from Hop Haus Brewing Company of Verona.
Style: The hefeweizen has been around a long time. Some beer historians say it was brewed as far back as the 11th century. Bavarian-style hefeweizens are characterized by German base ingredients and an unfiltered, cloudy appearance. They can have a variety of flavors including clove, vanilla, apple, banana, even bubblegum. They have low amounts of hoppiness. Hefeweizens are made with more than 50% wheat malt. German beer traditionalists probably prefer the name weissbier. In the U.S., these bright yellowish-golden to orange beers are often served with a slice of lemon on the lip of the glass, which some feel helps to cut the yeasty flavor and accentuate the crispness of the style. I usually avoid the lemon, because I like the wonderful yeasty esters of the hefeweizen.
Background: The hefeweizen is a style that Hoechst is quite fond of. However, when he recently sent a text to his cousin in Germany about having one in the tanks, he admits he took some good-natured kidding. “Whenever I’m over there and I get a wheat beer they tease me about that is ‘not our beer’ because it’s from down south,” says Hoechst, referring to Bavaria, which in reality is only a few hours away.
Hoechst makes his hefeweizen with 60% wheat. The rest of the grist is Pilsner malt with a touch of flaked wheat for texture and head retention. It’s hopped with German Hallertau and fermented with the same strain of yeast used by Weihenstephaner, the world’s oldest active commercial brewery, to make its own traditional Bavarian hefeweizen.
Hoechst got the idea for the name “Dairy Air” a few weeks ago after making a test batch of the beer. He was driving home from the brewery when he was struck by the aroma of a local farmer applying manure before spring planting. While not exactly the most appetizing connection, Hoechst thought it was still “a fun play on the area and local agriculture.”
Dairy Air finishes at 5% ABV and an estimated 12 IBUs. It’s available in the brewpub for $4.75/weizen glass, $8/32-ounce growler (refill), and $14/64-ounce growler (refill).
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Light herbal and banana.
Appearance: Bright yellow-golden and hazy (not really cloudy). A thick, soft, bubbly, white head.
Texture: Light and bubbly with softness.
Taste: Begins with a light fruity banana sweetness and a firm, yet mild, yeastiness.
Finish/Aftertaste: Clean with just a hint of banana and clove.
Glassware: This style has its own weizen glass to show off the beautiful color and bubbly, soft white head. Hoechst delayed release of this beer until his brewpub could get ahold of enough weizen glasses.
Pairs well with: Hefeweizens are light-bodied, crisp, bubbly and very effervescent, and because of that they can be great summer beers served with basic salads and light entrees. They are also quite refreshing on their own as a great patio beer on a warm day.
The Verdict: I really look for a good hefeweizen to spend my summer with, and this is an early entry in my summer beer favorites. My reference points for the style are Weihenstephaner hefeweissbier (which I’ve been fortunate enough to enjoy at the brewery in Germany on more than one occasion) and locally I often turn to the Great Dane’s best-selling Crop Circle Wheat (a beer that’s hard to beat during summer in the downtown brewpub’s courtyard).
I think Hop Haus has a hit on its taps because it compares well to both those beers. It’s a refreshing seasonal with smooth yeastiness with hints of lemon and banana. There’s also a light accent of clove that comes in late and in the finish. It is a tad lighter in body and not quite as cloudy as my favorites; however, I don’t consider that a flaw. Given that Hop Haus is located on the Military Ridge State Trail, this lighter version of hefeweizen is well suited to the bike crowd looking for a little refreshment during or after the ride. It’s a great homage to Bavaria, and Hoechst has reason to be proud of it.
